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October 30, 2003
Deep in prayer
Although the number of temples in Karachi has dwindled significantly, those that exist offer a rich spiritual experience, writes Ishtiaq Ali Mehkri
The Hindu community, the largest of Pakistan’s minorities, is quite proud of its history and religion. They have made their presence felt in trade, education and the arts. Hindus in Karachi comprise a fragile number of around 300,000. These include around 80,000 caste Hindus and around 200,000 scheduled castes. Hindus in Karachi belong mostly to the Rajput and Gujarati communities.
Though the Hindu population is scattered in and around the old city areas of Karachi, its largest presence is felt around the Swami Narayan temple, where around 5,000 people reside. The temple is said to be 150 years old and probably one that was built with a proper residential plan.
Temples in Karachi have a history dating back to the pre-partition era. There are even some temples that boast of their existence from the 14th and 15th century. It is then tragic to note that history has been unkind to them as today they lie in shambles.
Many structures have periodically been targeted by fanatics; they have been ransacked, burnt and severely damaged. The community says mistrust between Hindus and Muslims intensified during the days before and after partition. The Hindu community laments that it has not treated with the equality that was promised to them by the Father of the Nation. Nonetheless they find solace in their prayers at their places of worship.
The most well-known temples in service these days in Karachi are Swami Narayan, Mahaveer Hanuman, Shree Ratneswar Mahadev, and a few others, including the one underneath the Native Jetty bridge.
According to a survey there are at least a dozen more temples that have nearly disappeared either due to migration of Hindus from those areas, or due to encroachments as a result of over-construction in those localities. Among these temples is the famous case of the 200-year-old Shri Punch Mukhi Hanuman Mandir, which was encroached upon in connivance with KMC officials. Even today, a few outstanding but abandoned temples can be seen in the outskirts of Karachi, in Malir, Chowkandi, Keamari, and the old city pockets of Lyari.
The Lyari river is also home to one of the Hindu cremation grounds located in Rexer Lane. People in the community say that expansion of the old city area has created a problem for them as far as cremation sites are concerned, which is why they are searching for a new site. Customs require the body’s ashes to be placed in an earthen pot and floated on a river; in this case, the Lyari river.
Another 1,000 year old temple, famous but seldom attended, stands on the shores of Manora Island. Tales abound that the temple of Kali Mata (the goddess of evil), is located somewhere on an island near Karachi, but the community seemed reluctant to discuss this.
According to information gathered by TR, most functional temples these days are at the courtesy of the Evacuee Trust and Auqaf departments, as well as community contributions.
People in the community regret the indifferent attitude of the authorities for denying them level playing fields, and embezzling the funds that come their way. They say that religious programmes and festivals are now more or less community affairs organized on a self-help basis.
Most of the community members also hold the authorities responsible for usurping their properties and religious places, by allowing encroachments to take place. Although there is no data available to substantiate their claims, a few authorities agreed that a number of sites that used to be places of Hindu worship have gradually disappeared over the years.
Nonetheless, a visit to many of the temples depicts a charm of its own. Elaborately decorated idols, abundant flowers and the ever present incense, create an enchanting ambience. Artistic drawings on the walls and floors also add a special touch to the mood of piety.
Furthermore, the pealing of bells creates a religious atmosphere, in which the fervour of hundreds of devotees can be felt, as they recite verses in praise of their Lords. On Mondays a large number of devotees go to pay their respects to Lord Shiva.
The most fascinating aspect of Hinduism is its the colourful festivals, full of entertainment and amusement, that are celebrated throughout the year. A few among them are: Diwali, Ganhesh Ganphati (elephant festival), Holi (to mark the advent of spring), Pongal (harvesting season), Rakshbandhan or Rakhi (sisters day), Durga Pooja and the birthdays of Lord Shiva, Rama, and Krishna.
Unfortunately civic amenities at the temples are not up to the mark and devotees say they have to make special arrangements on festivals and other occasions to cater to their needs.
Apart from Swami Narayan temple on M. A. Jinnah Road, one can also see great activity in the courtyard of Shree Ratneswar Mahadev temple at Kothari Parade. People recall the good old days when the sea used to touch the Shree Ratneswar temple in Clifton. Its glorious history dates back to some 1,200 years when the colonialists were mesmerized by its beauty on the shores of the Arabian Sea.
An atmosphere resembling that of a mela is experienced at many of the temples in the city, with men and women walking around in their colourful dresses. Traditional langars (charity food) and stalls selling trinkets constitute a ritual at these sites.
The Hindus in Karachi also have to their credit a number of educational projects — the prime one among them is the Dayaram Jethmal (DJ) Science College. With the restoration of the Hindu Gymkhana, a new leaf has been added to the Hindu community’s archeological treasure in the city. The elders of the community are saddened to hear that the younger generation is losing touch with the historic Sanskrit script — the language of the holy books Gita and Mahabharat — and this has prevented them from promoting their language and culture.
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