October 9, 2003

An old man, reported to be 110 years of age, narrates his life to Liaquat Rajper

Pir Mohammad Bux Chandio alias Abu Kuraro is an old and well-known resident of Mohalla Allahabad, a slum and backward area of Larkana city. He had migrated from his village many years ago looking for a job to support his family comprising 45 members. Despite the age that he is — allegedly 110 years — he still works hard in the fields and earns from his land. When I first met him, he was coming from the city to his house carrying a bundle of flour on his head.

Abu Kuraro is a sturdy product of the past that nourished people on pure food not to mention an environment of less stress. Larkana was a small town when Abu Kuraro was a young boy; its population ran into the thousands and very few families lived in the city. Most people settled in villages closer to the river Indus because their business and trade depended on transportation through the river and canals towards various big cities.

But in changing its course many times, several villages by the coast were ruined which forced people to settle elsewhere. The boats were the source of transport on the river Indus and other water channels, while horses and bull-carts were used for travelling on land. Often though, people covered long distances on foot.

When he was young, Abu Kuraro, remembers the law and order situation being completely in control. Unlike the situation today, people used to travel safely through forests and lands without any fear. Necessities like cloth and other relevant provisions along with medical treatment were available in the villages; which was why they did not feel the need to visit Larkana.

Landlords were kind to people and they guarded the honour of the poor; they also provided for their people; early marriages were more common. Further recalling the days of yore, Kuraro says there was only one head of the family who incurred all the expenses of the family while other earning members gave their income to him.

Everyone had a considerable amount of cattle to themselves. Milk and yogurt were distributed free of cost, and anyone caught selling them was considered a criminal. People were more hospitable and deemed unlucky when guests did not visit their homes.

Until hand pumps were introduced, everyone in the village relied on wells, which had pure, cold water which was easily digested. Haris were dependent on their yearly yields, so they paid in kind for everything. Every night, a kutchery was held where everybody took turns telling stories about kings and queens, and reciting poetry about brave deeds of their families.

Though people were poor, they were happier and worked harder to earn a livelihood. Kuraro remembers that during the British rule, even a single policeman travelling on a horse to inspect a village, was cause enough to scare people into maintaining law and order in the area.

Commenting on troubles of that time, Kuraro says minor disputes were mostly settled by the head of the village. Karo Kari was unimaginable and people tried to hide their shortcomings.

Unmarried girls were considered equal to seven Holy Qurans and in case of a reconciliation act, the accused would bring their girls to plead for forgiveness from the aggrieved family, who forgave even the most grave offense including murder.

The wearing of turbans was considered to be mandatory for people who were outdoors or attending gatherings. People who didn’t wear them were considered uncivilized.

The daily food for people comprised pulses, saagh, potatoes, and greens. It was only on special days like Eid, marriage ceremonies, or when special guests were visiting that meat or other rich delicacies were served.

Entertainment meant visiting melas where they participated in Malh, Kodi Kodi, and other local games which showed their strength, in recognition of which people used to shower them with money.

Religious education was compulsory then, and Kuraro remembers how Hindus and Muslims participated actively in one another’s celebrations. There was no hatred and ill-will between Shias and Sunnis. Girls and boys played together even when they were grown-up. There were one or two hakeems in every village who provided treatment to the residents on loan. Not many fatal diseases infested the areas and people used to live a long healthy life.

The climate in the past used to be cool and people grew trees in their houses, parlours, fields, etc., to sit under their shade as a retreat from the heat. Houses were made of soil and sun burnt bricks which kept the houses comfortable. They used hand fans, and earthen and wood utensils and pots for all purposes.

They used cattle dung as manure and as a source of fuel; it was also burnt at night to keep mosquitoes at bay.

Abu Kuraro recalled the incident of cholera, which killed thousands of people in the area. It was very tragic, something he said he will never forget, as he still has a vivid memory of how every village buried so many bodies. Then there was the deluge of 1942, in which hundreds of villages were washed away, huts and kutcha houses collapsed, leaving thousands of people homeless.

Kuraro reminisces the pre-partition days of British rule when things were sold at cheap rates, justice prevailed, and people lived in an environment of less chaos. He remembers purchasing one buffalo for Rs10 in those days; one gram of gold was sold for Rs20 and the price of one seer of mutton was 14 annas.

This old man is still agile and active and does all his chores himself. He smokes the hukka, prefers covering distances on foot, can eat two kilos of sweets, meat and fish at one time and he does not visit doctors or use drugs.

His second marriage took place when he was 70, and he has four sons and two daughters from his second wife. He claims to be strong enough to defeat any young boy in a contest of strength.

He seems fulfilled in life, although he is contemplating a third marriage. He has no interest in politics because he thinks the problems in society emerge from a bad political system. He has appealed to the government for the supply of irrigation water to Sindh which is the lifeline of agriculture, without which people will live a life of starvation and deprivation.

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