October 9, 2003

At a time when people are avoiding sea food like the plague, the opening of Aqua Lounge, a restaurant specializing in maritime dishes seemed not only surprising, but ill-timed. However, on being informed by reliable sources that all the sea-food is imported from Dubai, we decided to check out the new eatery and see if it has the makings to survive in our highly competitive dining industry.

Located on the first floor of a building in what has become Karachi’s Rodeo Drive — Zamzama Boulevard — the restaurant has an inviting facade with its heavy antique-looking wooden door and plants lining the entrance. Wood dominates the decor of the eatery, with a large wooden reception desk at one side of the foyer, and an imposing wooden staircase leading you to the Lounge. The wall over the staircase is lined with wooden frames that are all, strangely enough, empty, as in fact, are the frames on the first floor. One wonders if the inauguration was too precipitate.

However, the rest of the decor immediately dispels any such misgivings. The restaurant boasts elegant seating with wooden tables, chairs, and two-seaters that are reasonably well-spaced out so that one doesn’t get a cluttered feeling.

Tiffany-style hand-painted shades provide subdued lighting, while a well-displayed wooden bar-area with glasses hanging from the awning enhances the appeal of the place. The brick flooring complements the wood-work and adds a rustic charm to the ambience. And the jute chiks semi-covering the large windows overlooking the busy shopping area looks refreshingly different from the usual window dressings.

The menu is impressive enough — a wooden folder with not-too-overpowering a selection listed within the two flaps. The complimentary bread basket that greets you almost as soon as you take a seat begins your dining experience on the right foot. The bread is fresh and warm, and is served with chicken liver pate, a welcome change from the usual dollops of butter served at most high-end restaurants. Two types of bread are offered: garlic bread with cherry tomato, and soft bread with herbs, oregano, and basil. The former is divine, while the latter manages to hold its own as well.

A complimentary chilled salad platter accompanied by a delectable dip is the next item to vie for our attention. Both the on-the-house starters remind one suspiciously of Okra, a feeling that persists with the arrival of our soups. There is a choice of two everyday — the night we went to the restaurant ‘New England fish chowder’ and ‘Garlic and ginger’ were served.

I chose the former while my husband obliged by opting for the latter. Both are lip-smacking and the delicate flavouring of the chowder particularly, is remarkably similar to the taste one is used to experiencing at the other popular eatery. One learns there is good reason for the de ja vu — the director operations of the restaurant was previously associated with Okra — although he insists that the new outlet has an entirely different menu.

For starters, we chose the ‘Sesame seed prawns’ and didn’t regret it for a second. Deep fried and served with a sumptuous sauce, it is surprisingly light. Perusing the list of entrees, it was a relief to discover that the Aqua Lounge has not restricted itself to sea-food alone. For the carnivorous, there are steaks and chicken items to select from. Having had my fill of fishy items, I opted for ‘Blackened chicken with Harissa sauce’. Quite tasty as it is, with Cajun spices, I felt it could do with a little more seasoning. My husband ordered ‘Fish in lemon vinaigrette and mustard’ — a succulent Red Snapper, prepared with subtle flavourings.

One learns that while some of the fish is imported from Dubai, not all the maritime offerings have been flown in, some of which are from fresh-water farms, and others from Gowader.

To wash down the wholesome meal we had thought of ordering a mocktail — one of the many concoctions that are now so popular at all up-scale restaurants — but found to our disappointment that all that was on offer were soft drinks.

There isn’t an overwhelming variety of dessert on offer either — in fact, there is a choice of only four, basically with a chocolate base. Being chocoholics, we decided to go for the one that sounded richest in chocolate — ‘Fantasay’, a hot dark chocolate cake with chocolate sauce. However, it is not as mouth-watering as it sounds. Indeed, we found it dry and bitter.

The service was both quick and efficient, but that was probably because we visited when it was not a particularly crowded night for them. The tab for a full-course meal is comparable to most restaurants of its calibre — roughly Rs900 per head.

One is told that the restaurant will be open for lunch from October 1, and will also be offering light, fast-food kind of items for the mid-day meal, keeping in mind the clientele that wishes to grab a quick bite. Hence, fish and chips, salads, and burgers are on the cards for those less into exotic items in the afternoons. So, Aqua Lounge does promise to be a welcome addition to the fold of delightful epicurean options. All it needs to do now is to work on its beverages and dessert section.

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