March 6, 2003

Moenjodaro should not be allowed to crumble away at the hands of negligent government authorities, writes Nisar Khokhar

Once upon a time, not too long ago, Moenjodaro used to attract many tourists, both foreign and local. However, due to the sheer negligence on the part of the authorities, that is no longer the case. Though some locals do visit this ancient archeological site, they face many problems, like finding decent accommodation and drinking water. As a national asset, Moenjodaro remains neglected in terms of proper care and development.

The excavations were initiated by a Bengali archeologist, M.J. Munjamdhar in 1923 under the supervision of Sir John Marshall, and concluded in the forties. Archaeologists are of the opinion that Moenjodaro has not been further excavated since 1931, when the team of Sir John Marshall left. M.J. Munjamdhar was later deputed to identify other ancient sites in Sindh. Unfortunately he was killed in 1935, by a notorious Brohi dacoit in the Kheerthar hills of Dadu district. His death was even mourned by Tagore, the great Bengali poet.

Researchers are still divided over the age of this ancient site. A commonly quoted figure is that Moenjedaro is 5,000 years old, but some researchers quote 7,000 while others quote 4,000.

“The non-availability of funds for the protection and conservation of Moenjodaro has made it vulnerable to natural and man-made dangers,” said Syed Hakim Ali Shah Bukhair, former Director, Conservation. The archaeological sites of Sindh have long been ignored deliberately by the federal archaeology department.

Earlier Moenjodaro was referred to as Kafirin-Jo-Daro, a place of infidels where Muslims had no reason to visit. However, today, despite the poor conditions surrounding the area, many people visit on the weekends.

Local residents once believed that there was a king who lived at the top of Moenjodaro, and he had made it compulsory for all the girls in the city to spend a night with him before their wedding. Rumour has it that things went awry when he tried to apply the same rule at his sister’s wedding. Thus Moenjodaro was destroyed. However, people realized over a period of time that this was only a myth.

“Whenever I come to Larkana I make it a point to visit Moenjodaro. It really reminds me of our roots,” says Saima Irshad., a Karachi based professional. “Wandering through the streets of the old city, I often wonder how civilized we were in the old age and why we are not the same way in this so-called modern age,” she lamented.

Every Sunday, people from different cities of upper Sindh throng to the site. “Moenjodaro is not an isolated place anymore,” says Muhammad Bux, a banker. “It attracts a lot of people as a tourist spot. Besides, we have no place to go on Sundays with our families so we come here regularly,” he said. Since there is a dearth of recreational sites in the area, visitors from Sukkur, Shikarpur, Khairpur and other towns flock Moenjodaro even on Eid and other national holidays.

It is estimated that Moenjodaro attracts half a million visitors during the Eid festival. Interestingly, no one officially arranges the festival, nor is any individual or organization involved. Almost five years ago, the local population of nearby towns and villages realized that Moenjodaro could be a good site for public gatherings. However, on occasions like Eid, the staff of the Archaeology department is away celebrating their holidays, which is why there is no one to control the unruly mob. Motorcyclists tend to ride all the way to the peak of the ancient site which has resulted in damage of the site.

While no one has any objection to the large number of visitors at Moenjedaro, it is important for them to realize that they should respect the sanctity of this ancient site. “Visitors should be allowed to view the site from a distance and they should not be allowed to walk on the crumbling walls,” said resident Anwer Dingrae.

Though security guards and official guides of the Archaeology department are usually present during visiting hours, larger crowds become uncontrollable. “How can 20 chowkidars control a crowd of thousands,” asked an aged security guard. It is therefore essential is to protect the site without discouraging visitors.

The interest and enthusiasm of local visitors should serve as an incentive for further development of the site; proper facilities should be provided for them. People have to bring food, fruit and even drinking water with them and sit in the public parks surrounding the museum that are badly maintained. The only canteen in front of the museum is run under unhygienic conditions. “When the Archaeology department generates funds through sale of tickets to visitors, why don’t they improve their services,” wondered Mumtaz, a visitor from Sukkur. (The local Archaeology staff charges entry tickets to the site and museum separately.)

The museum of Moenjodaro is itself in a sorry state of affairs. The museum was burgled several months ago, but police have yet to recover the coins and stamps. People still visit the museum with great interest but it has nothing to offer the visitors except perhaps pottery. There was a time when the museum was full of antiques. Half the museum relics were shifted to other museums while the remaining half have been stolen.

“There is no source of recreation in upper Sindh, particularly for women,” said Zahida Laghari, a social activist. “Moenjodaro had provided an opportunity for women to come out of their homes and enjoy themselves.”

Efforts at the private and government level are urgently needed for the uplift of Moenjodaro. If the government bodies have run out of resources, private companies should take some initiative and interest in preserving this national asset, and also develop it as a recreational spot. The green belts surrounding Moenjodaro can help save this ancient site. Underground water tables could be reduced with the help of growing particular plants. Tea shops, tourist huts and amusing parks could be established if the preservation and enhancement of the remains of the great Indus Civilization are seriously pursued.

It is feared that if people and nature are allowed to play havoc with the site, Moenjodaro may be destroyed in the next fifty years.

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