February 27, 2003

Durdana Soomro offers a few tips to keep your grass greener

Many of us would die for a lawn that looked like a golf course. This is hardly surprising as it was the golf craze that started off research into the different types of lawn grasses. The first trials were held in America and indicated that Bents and Fescues, as quoted in Hessayon, The Lawn Expert (London 2000), were the finest grasses for a luxury lawn. Research in the UK started much later in 1924. Again it was the Green Committee of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St.Andrews, the arbiter of the rules of golf, that suggested that turf culture needed to be investigated.

Naturally in my quest for the perfect lawn, I turned to Humayun Jalil, Course Superintendent at the Karachi Golf Club (KGC). An agriculture graduate from Tando Jam University, with an MSC in Soil Science, Humayun has some thirty years of experience in plant protection, insect control and related fields. He informed me that the grass used on the golf course, as in most domestic gardens here, is Bermuda Grass (Cynodon Dactylon) known locally as Dhaka grass. Although it is hardy and has adapted to our local conditions, it is a creeping variety and prone to thatching. Over the years stems and roots proliferate but there are few blades of grass. The KGC uses a special machine called a verticutter to cut through the thatch. For domestic gardens some experts suggest using a rake twice a year, in spring and autumn. The usual practice in Karachi is to wait until the thatch buildup becomes really severe and then just scrape the top layer off, spreading fresh soil and fertilizer and irrigating it until new grass comes up.

Among other problems that we face is high water table and soil salinity. This is hard to tackle in an old lawn. But for a new lawn Jalil advises removing 2 to 2 1/2 feet of soil. Then lay a plastic sheet as a barrier against the underground water. Put a layer of pebbles or stones on top of the sheet and then a 6 inch layer of charcoal, which should resist salinity for a few years. Add a layer of manure and on top of this sand.

The unsightly yellow patches which sometimes come up in lawns could be due to insects or disease. Because it is teeming with insect life, the lawn is one of the best ways to attract birds so I have decided that I would rather live with some yellow patches than blaze away with a powerful spray. After some halfhearted attempts at eradicating ants I have decided to share my lawn with them. If their mounds upset you get the mali to sweep them away with a broom. As far as disease is concerned many experts say that over watering is often the culprit. In KGC the greens, i.e. the area around the hole, are watered daily while the fairways are watered in thirds so each section gets watered every third day.

Fertilizer should be used on a regular basis - in March and then during the monsoons, in July/August. There is no need to fertilize in winter as this is the dormant period for Bermuda grass. KGC uses ojhri ka khad as it is free of weed seeds. But you can also use sewage manure which is sold in Karachi under the name TP1 and TP2. To top dress, sieve the fertilizer to remove lumps and stones and mix with sand in equal quantities. Spread evenly with a board so that hollows and depressions are levelled out.

A question that bothers some of us is how often should the lawn be mowed. (Especially asked by those who don’t have to do it themselves!) The answer is that it depends on how high you want the grass to be. In general, however, regular mowing is better than a close shave once in a blue moon, as any man will tell you. More frequent mowing is needed in summer than in winter.

Most people will tell you that if you want a lawn you can’t have trees. Trees cast shade and grass needs the sun. At the golf course, however, it is not unusual to come across trees in the fairway and there is nothing as attractive as a beautiful tree in the middle of a swathe of grass. But you may disagree if you are a golfer. By trial and error, I have found that it is possible to have trees in the middle of the lawn but with certain reservations. While one or two trees may be all right in the average garden, more than that will affect the lawn adversely.

Small leafed trees cast dappled shade which is not so damaging. I have a Sajna (Moringa Oleifera) which cohabits quite harmoniously with the lawn. But I had to take out a Champa which drooped very attractively but was causing large bare patches, making it difficult to mow. I could have pruned the lower branches to lift the crown and allow more light in but I decided I didn’t want the tree there after all. Mowing may still be difficult as it may not be possible to take the mower right up to the trunk without damaging it. There may also be roots making the ground uneven. One way out is to keep the level of the grass higher near the tree and to trim this off and on with shears. You can also naturalize bulbs under the tree or use alternate ground cover.

One of the things I find really attractive in a golf course is the way the grass is cut to different heights. On the green where a smooth putting surface is essential, the grass is mowed so close to the ground that it resembles the finest velvet. On the fairway the level of the grass is higher - like walking on a shaggy carpet, and in the rough the grass can be any length, depending on how tough the Green Committee want the course to be. The result is that instead of being just the backdrop, as it is in our gardens where the main players are the flowers and other ornamentals; on the golf course grass itself becomes the star.

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