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Romancing the stone
Lahore is fast catching up with the cult of designer accessories. Jewellery has always been the Punjabi woman’s passion (and the Punjabi man’s permit to the woman’s heart); and now there are ways to manage it all with exclusive designer pieces, each one of which has been dexterously crafted.
Pioneering the trend in Lahore is none other than the HSY brand, a discernible name that has already made its mark in the country’s fashion arena. An aficionado of bridals, Hasan Sheryar launched his exclusively bridal jewellery line in January this year, setting off strong undulation in Lahore’s otherwise quiet jewellery dominion. Previously, the only happening factor in the city’s sprawling, pret-a-porter jewellery scenario were the oscillating gold prices, but with the trend of designer jewellery already off the launch pad, the exclusive pieces have become all the rage amongst Lahore’s chic and hip.
Diamonds are a woman’s best friend, and Hasan ensures the amity develops, rather early, as soon as women tie the nuptial knot. Rendering the most coveted cuts from all over the world into his work, he specializes in bridal jewellery, employing South African, Belgian, Burmese and Polki diamonds to craft individual pieces that are not duplicated. “Every piece is exclusive in our line and we do not make two pieces to the same design,” says Hasan Sheryar, while talking about his accessory forte. A graduate of the Pakistan School of Fashion Design, Hasan is greatly influenced by the British-Raj era, and this is why his designs nurture distinctly under the inspiration of Victorian and Moghul philosophies. “I believe in the fusion of East and West, the best of which can together produce stunning results.”
The HSY jewellery workshop is based in Jaipur, India, and while Hasan does all the designing himself, his team of technical experts helps out to lend the right finish to each one of his pieces. Using rubies, emeralds, sapphires and rose-cut diamonds to enhance his designs, some of the HSY pieces also lead the line in party wear. When asked how he ensures that his designs are not copied and reproduced by others, the designer responds aptly by saying that it is not possible to guarantee copyrights in their work environment. “It is not easy to enforce copyrights in our country, but because most of our craftsmen and workers are based in India, reproduction by others might not be easy, and this fact acts as a natural hindrance.” Hasan strongly believes in originality in designing and his designs are befitting reflections of his penchant.
Following closely is Saadia Mirza’s Visage that was launched in February this year, a month after the HSY line. The label defines itself as being vigorously quixotic. Concentrating on diversity, Saadia has expanded her creative energies into five different lines: vanity, vintage, vision, voyage, and visage. Dramatic and stunning, each line offers a myriad of choices for those who desire to be more expressive of their own distinctiveness. Visage flaunts stunning handmade accessories that are unique in design and quality. The Visage bags, scarves and jewellery lend finishing touch to any ensemble, besides providing an essential edge of glamour and charisma. Making sure that no more than two or three pieces are made to the same design, Saadia offers a rare option for her clients to don exclusivity and uniqueness.
Previously, the only happening factor in the city’s sprawling, pret-a-porter jewellery scenario were the oscillating gold prices, but with the trend of designer jewellery already off the launch pad, the exclusive pieces have become all the rage amongst Lahore’s chic and hip
Setting semi-precious and precious stones, Polki, diamonds and pladium in white and yellow gold, Visage presents yet another range of designer jewellery suitable for all occasions and ages. “I have been greatly inspired by Victorian serpentine pieces,” remarks Saadia Mirza. Collecting the pieces and assembling the line took Saadia almost a year. “I believe that the concept of designer jewellery has not yet flourished as it should have and still needs to be refined by proper design philosophy and lacks in finesse. I always wanted to design jewellery which could complement my opulent ensembles.” The dresses and accessories, however, flatter each other as both are closely harmonised, coming from the same designer, and yet managing to be independently fashioned. Saadia Mirza graduated from the London College of Fashion, and has been into designing since 1998. She started her work from Karachi.
Amna Kardar, yet another graduate of Lahore’s triumphant fashion school, has also launched a label by the name AM accessories, though Amna’s designer realm encompasses costume, rather than, precious jewellery. “I always knew I wanted to do something on my own as I had the ability to make a name for myself in this fast changing world of fashion,” remarks a self-assured Amna. After graduating from Pakistan School of Fashion Design, Amna worked for Libas for a few months and later launched her label. Amna started by doing the accessory line for Karma’s Goddess collection. “People’s response to an exhibition of my brand in Lahore was overwhelming. I wanted to give something different to the market and yearned to start a new trend that had not hit Pakistan so far.”
Hankering to polish her skills even further while vying for academic excellence at the same time, Amna went to London, taking with her some samples of her work. In London, she did a jewellery designing course from St Martin’s, followed by an accessories designing course from FIT in New York. Currently Amna is also designing for Salina Wardah’s new collection, Euphoria, besides teaching at PSFD and working as a free-lance designer for Lahore’s famed Ehsan Chappal Store. It was always Amna’s passion to give the young generation range and variety that was not easily available to them earlier. Amna says that her brand is about looking good and feeling good too, while she strongly believes that it is possible to make anything in Pakistan.
In August 2005, Maleeha Naipaul joined Amna, and the two have since opened an outlet in Model Town. Amna’s costume jewellery is basically made from silver and steel. “We do not use precious metal or stones, only semi-precious stones as we are just dealing in costume jewellery. “However,” maintains Amna, “we don’t just do jewellery but try to provide a complete solution to accessories in Pakistan. Even though costume jewellery is available in the local market, the quality and craftsmanship that you will find under our brand is far more superior to the off-the-rack ornaments available all over Lahore.”
Dr Omar Adil and Zara Shahjahan are amongst the few other select names that are also doing designer jewellery in Lahore. Omar’s pieces are striking and he has been in the field for quite some time. He undertakes jewellery designing more as a passion than a profession, and most of his designs are quite dazzling.
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