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Riding the wave
“Bridal Waves 2005 is a homegrown show that would put the wedding industry on a single platform. This is the first time that Pakistani, Indian, Bangladeshi and Sri Lankan designers have exhibited their designs under one roof in Pakistan. We invited 400 to 500 stores and 160 designers to participate in this event,” said Asim Qadri of Bridal Waves Corp, adding, “Guddo of Sokankar, Faiza Samee and Rizwan Beyg agreed immediately.”
Forty designers showed their collections at a sparsely attended three-day exhibition from April 30 to May 2 in Lahore, while 20 designers were carried forward to show their collection on the catwalk during the three days of fashion and fun. Six designers each showed on the first and second days while eight were supposed to show on the third day but only seven did.
“First, we wanted to have Indian and Pakistani designers side by side so as to create a platform of confidence-building. Secondly, we wanted to highlight Pakistan’s fabric and textile industries. Indian designers such as Manish Arora and Shantanu and Nikhil went ga-ga over some of our unique fabrics which are unavailable on the other side of the border. Thirdly, we wanted to catapult Lahore onto the international fashion scene by showing at the legendary and culturally exquisite Alhamra Complex,” Qadri said.
The leading designers who participated in Bridal Waves included Satya Paul, Manish Arora, Shantanu and Nikhil, Aparna Chandra, Manish Malothra, Kaveeta Bharatya of Ogan from India; Faiza Samee, Maheen Khan, Rizwan Beyg, HSY, Guddo of Sokanzar, Hajra Hayat, upcoming labels Satrangi and Nabeel Aqeel from Pakistan; Sri Lanka’s leading fashion designer Yolanda and Bangladesh’s Reena Latif. When asked why Lahori designers such as leading bridal couturier Nilofer Shahid and brash couture-cocktail label Karma did not show, Qadri alluded to negative publicity circulating following a mid-February press conference and designers being hesitant to sign on as a result. “Earlier, during Bridal Asia, an established Indian bridal organization tried to stop us every step of the way, but it was quite a compliment if we posed any type of threat to them,” Qadri said.
Apart from six Indian models including ‘supers’ Lakshmi and Sapna; and three Pakistani models, including Mehreen, Maha and Rachel, two models from Sri Lanka also participated. “One of the Sri Lankan models was last year’s Miss Sri Lanka, while the other is this year’s reigning Miss Sri Lanka and a nominee for Miss Universe,” he added. Indian choreographer, the talented Aparna Bahl of Preferred Professionals choreographed the very diverse collections, while Pakistani stylist Nabila canvassed and styled the models.
Some of the strengths of Bridal Waves included the infrastructure. “We used our contacts from India for such details as the lighting and worked together with them,” said the organizer, admitting that some of the pitfalls were related to the ‘No Objection Certificate’ (NOC) being put on hold by the excise and taxation department.
The theme of this year’s Bridal Waves was Uchee Burj Lahore De (The Tall Walls of Lahore). As is the custom in this part of the world, many of the invitations had to be sidelined to bureaucrats and government personnel who quite obviously didn’t display much interest in the designers’ collections but who nevertheless had to be appeased — much to the chagrin of some of the designers.
Images spoke to three of the top-notch Pakistani designers who had participated in the show — Faiza Samee, Maheen Khan and Rizwan Beyg.
What was your impetus and reason for participating in Bridal Waves 2005?
Faiza Samee: This was the first attempt by Pakistan to create a platform for designers from the subcontinent to show next to one another. We needed to start somewhere. I was impressed by Asim Qadri’s enthusiasm and model Mekaal who was responsible for the marketing.
Maheen Khan: At first I resisted. But then I thought, this is a Pakistani forum, and as we all go to Bridal Asia, it was time to support our own. This was a step in the right direction so that people would take the fashion industry seriously. I’m sure other such platforms will soon emerge.
Rizwan Beyg: I participated predominantly to represent Pakistan. I also wanted to show Indian designers our strengths and share with them our differences. My impetus was also to highlight the differences between Karachi-based and Lahori designers.
Do you think Bridal Waves is trying to follow the concept of India’s Bridal Asia? What are some of the differences and similarities?
Faiza Samee: I think this was Bridal Waves Corp’s own version of a bridal event. I didn’t expect it to be perfect. Even when Bridal Asia began it was not so large or grand.
Maheen Khan: Bridal Waves may be a precursor, although I hate using that word, to other shows of this kind. I am sure this will open floodgates for other people to get into bridal shows of this magnitude and do even better.
Rizwan Beyg: Unfortunately, everyone has cashed in on the bridal scene. It’s become a purely commercial exercise even as far as these shows are concerned. The problem with the bridal concept is when the fashion element is eclipsed by the necessity for showing ghararas, shararas and lehngas. These don’t do justice to what people are capable of.
What were your general impressions of Bridal Waves?
Faiza Samee: I was only there on the last day, so I am not the best person to ask. But I appreciate the organizers and the choreographers for helping me carry out my concept-based collection.
Maheen Khan: I think the organizers have a lot to learn. This was a first effort so I won’t be so hard on them. The lighting was fantastic but the right people from the media were not in the audience. There were lots of gaps but I hope the event will go from strength to strength. We should encourage this effort.
Rizwan Beyg: The exhibition was poorly attended, as it was not well-publicized. The audience was also mismanaged. But this was a first attempt and I am lenient and willing to make allowances.
What were some of the weaknesses and pitfalls that the organizers fell into? What advice would you give them for next time?
Faiza Samee: The exhibition wasn’t advertised very well. I think the organizers might have realized what they did wrong.
Maheen Khan: They should have tried to invite and cultivate the right audience and not just sell tickets. Even if they had to sell tickets, they should have at least invited people all across the board who were genuinely interested in fashion and the clothes. We have to introduce the concept of perusing shows for the fashion content and not just as entertainment. They could have invited film stars, men and women interested in becoming designers, women who would actually wear these clothes. A different person needs to handle security, marketing, choreography, etc. We have a talented pool of professionals in this country so don’t try to be a one-man show. The Indian models were great but I missed some of our top girls.
Rizwan Beyg: The organizers were up against a lot as they had minor sponsors and at one point the show was being cancelled for a lack of a NOC.
How would Bridal Waves impact your personal label?
Faiza Samee: My label thrives on personal interactions with my clients. A show like this is part of the whole “fashion picture”. I do shows like this all the time.
Maheen Khan: I don’t think it will impact my label. I am not known for bridal outfits and I only do for a select private clientele. I just enjoyed the pleasure of my clothes being beautifully modelled. However, the crowd and security were pathetic, and that was a bit of a letdown because we all made an effort aesthetically.
Rizwan Beyg: I think the show was a great platform to separate ‘the men from the boys’. A comparative analysis that showed the six leading designers (three Pakistani and three Indians) and the rest, who stood where. The Indian models said that they had no idea that Pakistan had so much potential.
How would Bridal Waves impact the Pakistan fashion industry?
Faiza Samee: Bridal Waves included many more Indian designers than Bridal Asia has ever included Pakistani designers. There has been a spate of Indian designers showing in Pakistan (Tarun Tahiliani, Suneet Verma, Rina Dhaka) so that’s a good thing.
Maheen Khan: I know that Bridal Waves will affect the fashion industry. It will show the industry that yes, there is a potential to have bridal shows of this size. It will have a boomerang effect and will pave the way for other organizers who may do a better job and even create a fashion week incorporating bridal fashions.
Rizwan Beyg: It was an eye-opener for many. It showed us all how the Indians view fashion and how we view fashion. Again, it separated the men from the boys.
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