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Lord of the Ring
Khawar Riaz might leave the delicate darlings of fashion aghast with his brash attitude, but even they grudgingly concede that the accomplished lensman is top-of-the-line when it comes to fashion photography. Especially men’s fashion photography.
While others mechanically juggle stereotypes, Khawar seems to change his models’ looks with every click of the camera. From the Brazilian vagabond to the American soldier, to the present Beckham-esque international superstar, his futuristic vision has kept him gaily clicking ahead of the competition. That, and the ability to chisel a David or Venus out of mohallah material. He now lords over Ocular, the model-managing machine that has formalized his fashion empire, adding yet another expression to an expanding list: Lord of the Ring.
Q: News of you boycotting the Lux Style Awards 2004 came as a bolt from the blue. What made you do that?
A: I was asked to send my portfolio but I politely declined. Award or no award, what difference is it going to make? If I had won, all it would have done was to add another feather to my cap, which I certainly don’t need. My cap is already loaded with feathers.
Q: But LSA is the only fashion award ceremony we have and being a fashion photographer and stylist, you should support it.
A: To me success does not lie in awards, or for that matter in the standing ovations I receive. It comes with inner satisfaction. You have to have strong faith in yourself. If you are satisfied, everything else becomes inconsequential. And this inner satisfaction is far superior to any accolade.
Q: So the decision doesn’t have anything to do with LSA’s rejection of your portfolio last year?
A: Of course not. The awards mean nothing to me. And I am not saying this because I was not given an award or nominated. I personally feel that where the LSA is concerned, nepotism and personal bias come first. The effort you put in and the quality stuff you produce comes much, much later. There is no point in being a part of such a flawed circus.
Q: You sound quite bitter.
A: I am. Tell me, what is their criteria for judging the awards? Look at their judges. They are not credible enough to differentiate between good, bad and mediocre work. They gave the award for the best fashion photographer to an artist and the best actress award to someone who is not exactly known for her acting prowess. They are judging designers’ and beauticians’ work with a handful of visually appealing images, which are more of a photographer’s wizardry than theirs. This is not even funny. But again, if you invite principals, socialites and architects to judge, what can you expect?
Q: Instead of griping and whining, shouldn’t solutions be found?
A: I hope the LSA people are open to suggestions. They should call up people who have a sense of fashion and are technically sound.
Q: Such as?
A: Fashion editors. At least they will make impartial evaluations.
Q: So you won’t be participating again?
A: No, I won’t. I want to stay away otherwise it will seem like I myself am a part of the rat race, which is the last thing on my agenda because in the end you are nothing but a rat. Thank you very much!
Q: Do you agree with the jury’s decision to give Usman Saeed the award for the best fashion photographer this year?
A: Usman is a great artist. What they showed on the screen at the ceremony was quite impressive. Some of the images were to die for. But those were all animated and far removed from what a fashion photographer ought to be doing. I disagree with the decision.
Q: Then who do you think was more deserving?
A: Deevees.
Q: There is the general notion that Deevees copy Ather Shahzad.
A: If that’s the case then Ather Shahzad should be proud because only worthy things get copied.
Q: Friends and enemies are never permanent in showbiz. Congratulation on having a patch-up with your long-time rivals Ather Shahzad. Were there any ego hassles coming in the way of the golden handshake?
A: There was no bad blood between us. And there can’t be a patch-up of sorts because there was never a problem. We live in two different worlds and think along different lines. That’s it and the rest is all media assumption.
Q: Ocular, your modelling agency, is doing rather well with all the big labels. You have a beautiful new home and a men’s salon in the works. It seems Khawar Riaz is all charged for action once again. Is the king finally back to regain his crown?
A: I was analyzing the scene from afar. Thanks to catastrophes during the last two years, I have undergone a drastic metamorphosis. It took me a while to pull myself together and get back in action. I am now back for good, not as a star-maker but as an entrepreneur with Ocular, the first registered modelling agency of Pakistan.
Q: Why call it Ocular?
A: It’s got to do with vision.
Q: Is it your brainchild?
A: Very much. It’s a new platform for people who have talent but don’t have any route. Unlike the past, I don’t target just one person but every model who is a part of it. Ocular is my new baby and I want it to grow, flourish and stand on its feet.
Q: Are you happy with the way it is shaping up?
A: More than anything. Check out the billboards all over the country, commercials running on national TV and in the fashion glossies. My models are here, there and everywhere.
Q: Will your models be available for other photographers as well?
A: Yes. Any photographer who wants my models can approach us.
Q: Is this a step towards putting an end to the clanning dogma of Lahore?
A: I don’t support clanning. It’s like a termite that is eating away the foundations of our fashion industry. ‘Get united and support each other’ is my new motto.
Q: Your male models may look like Greek gods but in real life they appear to be duds. Why is that so?
A: In the photos, what you see is not them but my vision and creativity.
Q: But along with their appearance, don’t you think you should also work on grooming their personality?
A: As a photographer and make-up artist I can bring out the best in my model and turn him/her into a celebrity. But what I can’t change is their personality. For that you need good education and wholesome upbringing.
Q: So why not pick people with the right background?
A: I feel that throughout my career I have created more monsters than stars. I have learnt my lesson the hard way and have decided not to promote mohallah material anymore. I have made mistakes and the only way to rectify them is to be careful and weigh the pros and the cons, and take necessary precautions before introducing anyone. Now, I want to make icons, not stars.
Q: While all the top labels come to you for their campaigns, top designers don’t. Do you regret not working with the right designers despite being one of the best fashion photographers?
A: I don’t believe in running after people. Top labels come to me because they get what they want. The designers that do come to me, I work with them. I am a creative person and I work according to my moods, which swing frequently. I don’t necessarily need a Nilofer Shahid in order to express my creativity. Even a PSFD student can inspire me for a shoot. It’s all a question of inspiration and accessibility.
Q: The fashion industry is an unsympathetic place that doesn’t look too favourably upon anyone who doesn’t conform to their western elitist standards. Have you ever been affected by this shallow class-consciousness?
A: I am a malang. I do what I like to do and wear what I feel comfortable in — be it agreeable or disagreeable to people. I live for myself and not for people. I can’t do things to please others. Love me or leave me, this is the way I am. If they don’t work with me because I am less educated then that’s their choice. I want people to judge me by my work and not by the way I dress and the way I talk. If you want good work, you will get it. As for education, I may not have the stamped sheet of paper called a degree lying in my closet, but I am not short on basic manners, and that teaches me to give people due respect.
Q: Zara Sheikh, your well-known protegee, once accused you of being unfair to her and ended up running away from your camp. What is your equation with her now?
A: When Zara came to me she was raw. I worked hard on her and she became famous. Ather Shahzad had five fully-groomed girls ruling the media while I just had her. I held her hand, helped her cross all the hurdles and made her attain the pinnacle of success. That’s when she left me and fell from grace.
People misled her, telling her to work with others because she was getting stale and stagnant with me. So she chose to move on to what may have seemed to her at the time to be greener pastures. Later, she realized that it was a misstep — that what she left behind her was her home, and there is no place like home.
Q: Ahmed Butt, who also left, has returned?
A: Yes. Zara and Ahmed are like my children. Children make mistakes and parents forgive them. It’s natural.
Q: It has been said that designer Ather Hafeez is the man behind Khawar Riaz, that he not only coordinates all your shoots but does the make-up as well, and you do nothing apart from pressing the shutter button.
A: Designers and labels come to me because of me and not Ather Hafeez or anyone else. Ather Hafeez is a dear friend. I admire his vision and his perspective on life. When I am busy, I ask him to rescue me which he does and vice versa. That’s what friends are for. But saying Ather Hafeez is running the show and I am having fun at his expense is very far from reality.
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