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The Magazine

April 9, 2006




The gem called Jordan



By Muhammad Barkaat Ali


Brimming with rich history and diverse culture, Jordan is a tourist’s paradise

“General Musharraf” is what instantly comes out of the mouths of Jordanian people the moment you tell them you are from Pakistan. Or so was my experience during my one-week stay in one of the most historically rich countries in the world. Jordan has so much in terms of culture and history to offer to everyone who gets to visit it.

Jordan enjoys a unique geographical position as it is situated between the great civilization of Egypt to the west and Mesopotamia in the east. This predominantly Islamic country with a population of just over five million is a tourist’s paradise and earns a substantial chunk of its revenues from the tourism industry. During my stay in Amman (the capital) and Petra, I could see every single historical place thronged by tourists from all parts of the world.

One of the reasons why Jordan attracts so many visitors is its peaceful environment and a sound law and order situation. One hardly gets to witness uniformed men policing the streets or questioning people every now and then. This is very much unlike Pakistan where the police are a dreaded institution striking fear in the minds and hearts of all and sundry. Despite the reputation Pakistan ‘enjoys’ all over the world, especially in the West, Jordanians hold Pakistanis in high esteem. Pakistan is considered to be a country that has enough strength to be among the potential leaders of the Muslim Ummah. General Musharraf is popular and people believe he makes a lot of sense when he talks about the issues that confront the world. Whether our president will be able to live up to the expectations of these people is another question and not something to be discussed here. It may be interesting for many Pakistanis to know that the wife of Prince Hassan of Jordan (Princess Sarwat) is a Pakistani woman and was based in Karachi before her marriage.

Jordan, in comparison to most of its other Arab counterparts, shows some trappings of affluence and wealth. Only a cursory look at their public and personal transport would tell you that Jordanians are doing much better than us. Mercedes, BMWs and latest models of other famous brands dot the roads in Amman. Even taxis are found in immaculate condition. A taxi driver that I met informed me that every taxi had to be scrapped after it completed its five years. A new taxi was then available duty-free to that person as a replacement. But all this talk about new cars should not mislead us into thinking that their traffic is organized. The traffic in Amman (the city where I stayed mostly) is as crazy as it is in any part of the world, though my experience tells me that no country has been able to surpass Egypt when it comes to traffic-mess and dangerous driving.

Amman, also known as the ‘City of the Seven Hills’, now with time and population increase, stretches over 19 hills. The Citadel is the most famous tourist resort in the city. It is present on top of a hill and gives a breathtaking view of the city particularly at night. The Citadel houses the grand Omayyad the Great Palace (Al-Qasr), Temple of Amman (formerly the Temple of Hercules), and the Byzantine Basilica. The site also has an archaeological museum which is said to contain artifacts dating back thousands of years. Unfortunately the time when we reached the museum, it was closed. Around the base of the hill stands out the Roman Amphitheatre with all its glory and history. This unique attraction from the past was in fact carved out of a hill and given the form of the existing amphitheatre. Although it is a historical monument, it is occasionally used for various important events and can accommodate a shade over six thousand people.

One of the most famous archaeological attractions in the entire country is the city of Petra, located almost three hours’ drive in the south of the capital. Petra (from Latin word petrae meaning rock) was an important city of the ancient Nabataea (an Arab hill tribe) during the days of the spice trade in the first century BC but it developed in the real sense of the word under the Roman rule. Just a few kilometres of walk down its streets is enough to mesmerize anyone. One finds oneself lost in history which is interspersed with the reigns particularly of the Nabataeas and the Romans. The sites in the city are amazingly built by shaping and cutting out hilly rocks. Various sites (or ancient departments) such as Alkhazana (the treasury), Al Siq, Al Mahkama, and the Petra-Church, testify the advanced level of urbanization of the city in those times. The hydraulic engineering system still amazes the modern-times engineers for its perfection and effectiveness. A visit to the rock-cut Petra is worth spending time and money for those who are always on the look out for the wonders of the world.

I think this travelogue will not be complete unless complemented by a quick word on Jordanian food. Although food delicacies are named almost in the same way in most Arab countries, but the taste differs from country to country. When our hosts invited us to lunch in the outdoors, I was thinking the lunch would probably include barbecue stuff followed by the traditional Baklava, but I was surprised to see a big round tray in the centre of each table. The tray contained ample quantities of thick rice, mixed with lamb, which I believe was seasoned with some flavoured herbs and dredged with various kinds of nuts. This particular food, served with sort of a yogurt-based sauce, is known as Mansaf in Jordan and has assumed the status of a national delicacy. Having lunch was indeed a tasty and interesting affair. The other items that I tried here and there during my stay in the country included famous Arabian Shwarma, Falafel, Chicken Escallop (Jordanian Style), Meze (starters), and not to forget Alaseer al Jawafa (guavas juice) which I really got addicted to. Jordanians seem to have a sweet tooth as sweet-shops are found bustling with customers at night where special seating arrangements are made for the customers to have desserts. Apart from Baklava, Kanafa, Hareesa, Madlooqa etc are famous sweet delicacies.

Jordanians seem to love their king as one finds portraits and pictures of King Abdullah and his late father King Hussain in every nook and corner of the country besides offices and government buildings. The people appear to be quite happy with the system of governance in the country and I hardly found anyone voicing grievances against the rulers. This is diametrically opposite to us Pakistanis who always think they have yet to see a government that is genuinely interested in their welfare.

As I was flying over Amman on my way back to Pakistan, I was overwhelmed with the thinking how colourful and diverse this world is, inhabited by people of different colour, creed, and religion with unique values and traditions. We are all the same in one way and different in another. All this strengthens one’s faith and points to the greatness of the Almighty who is the Creator of everything that exists and amazes us almost every day. n



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