The cantonment in Nowshera is one of the most beautiful in the country. Built by the British before and during WWII, the entire cantonment lies along the banks of River Kabul.
There is a wide green belt, big enough to accommodate picnic areas and a golf course, besides clusters and rows of large and small trees and beds of roses, between the river and the living and working area. A fresh, exhilarating and invigorating air covers the entire area throughout the day. The people of Nowshera are indeed lucky to have such a decent place at a walking distance, all thanks to the British planners. The winter mornings appear enveloping the whole area in a white sheet of mist. It is difficult to distinguish between land and river. To have a morning walk at such a time is an indescribable experience.
While travelling towards Peshawar, via the G.T. Road, when you reach famous Attock Bridge, over Indus, history starts unfolding. In the middle of the two, up and down going roads is a tomb, named as “Attock Tomb”; a courtesan of Mughal Emperor Akbar is said to be lying here. On proceeding a bit further is the “Baradari of Bairum”. It was built during the days of Akbar and is perhaps named after his chief advisor Berum Khan. Adjacent to it is the building of the post office of the area. Beside it, is a small mosque. The inscription on the mosque describes that it was built during the days of Afghan King Sher Shah Suri but the plaster and white-wash which now covers it do not make it look like a historical building.
Next comes the “Begum Ki Sarai”, named after Queen Noor Jahan, wife of Emperor Jehangir and then appears the awesome wall of Attock Fort. Built by Akber, the famous fort (infamous these days for certain reasons) stands at one of the most strategic sites in the subcontinent. It was constructed to guard the fertile plains of Punjab against the onslaught of invaders from the north. At the same time, provided reconnaissance and logistical base to the royal armies marching towards the Northern areas and Afghanistan.
After crossing the Attock Bridge, we enter NWFP. Indus here serves as natural boundary between Punjab and NWFP. We reach Kund, a superb picnic resort where the River Kabul shakes hands with the Indus. We then proceed towards Jhangira, a town which is said to have been named after Mughal Emperor Jehangir. From here, a road leads to Tarbela Dam.
The next notable place is Akora Khatuk well known for its ‘Darul Uloom’. During Afghan-Soviet War, Akora Khatuk had one of the biggest Afghan refugee camps. Every Afghan refugee was convinced that he was fighting against the infidels and the atheists. The American propaganda and the preaching of some religious leaders had produced their desired results. If only they could have foreseen the future.
While entering Nowshera Cantonment, the first prominent and impressive building we see on our left is the School of Armoury — then there is beautiful stadium named after late General Zia ul Haq. As we proceed onward, impressive structures of army and civil establishments are seen on both sides.
During my stay at Nowshera Cantonment. I visited a village on the other side of River Kabul. The graveyard of the village has a grave which is about twenty feet long. Here lie buried the “Shaheeds” of one of the major skirmishes between the Sikhs and the followers of Syed Ahmed Shaheed Barelvi. The inscription on the grave mentions the name of the commander buried here. It is said as Allah Buksh Khan, from District “Ano”, U.P. India. The names of other Shaheeds buried in the same grave are not given, nor is given their number.
The peace of Jinnah Garden, as the Green Belt of Nowshera Cantonment has been named now, is intermittently broken by the booming of gun fire. The sound of the guns tell us whether the guns are short, medium or big. Nowshera Cantonment is a big training centre of artillery and armoury and has a great reputation for its excellence in the two fields. Surprisingly the sounds of the guns do not disturb you at all while you are sitting on a bench near the bank of River Kabul and enjoying fresh air and peaceful atmosphere. The sound of the guns melts into the great vastness of the area. On the other hand it creates a feeling of strength and national pride. Things which, unfortunately, we have never been able to display effectively.
I also had the chance to visit a school in an Afghan Refugees camp near Nowshehra. Established twenty years ago, it is being run by a young Afghan who was born in Pakistan. Both the camp and its school run and functions in-spite of heavy odds. The inhabitants say that all aid has been withdrawn. But they cannot return to Afghanistan immediately as their homes, their villages everything belonging to them in Afghanistan stands completely destroyed. However, they are optimistic that one day they will return, for which they have been assured, time and again.
The cantonment in Nowshera is one of the most beautiful in the country. Built by the British before and during WWII, the entire cantonment lies along the banks of River Kabul.
