The city’s once glorious past is fast disappearing under the supervision of careless administrators and repeated coats of whitewash

ACCORDING to historian Abu-al-Fazal, Lahore is the grand resort of all nations; centuries of devastation and destruction couldn’t remove its architectural legacy — bathhouses, Nakhlai, audience halls etc. However, the city’s most remarkable architectural period came when Sheikh Illmuddin Ansari was made the governor of this Mughal city.

Given the title of Nawab Wazir Khan, this native of Chiniot erected magnificent buildings of captivating exterior and interior. Persian influence dominated the colourful mosaic and frescoes in those works of art, something that is dominant and clearly visible in his masterpiece, the Wazir Khan Mosque. Apart from this pearl, Wazir Khan commissioned work on the unique Nakhlai Wazir Khan and the Shahi Hammam.

Surrounded by congested narrow streets, shops and old-buildings, the Shahi Hammam is situated close to the historical Delhi Gate. Attested by a Waqf Deed, it was made at least as early as AD1641. It is recorded that it was the personal property of the architect who designed it and was his source of income. An entrance fee, equivalent to 1-1/2 farthings was charged. However, in later years, emperors took control of the place and made it free for the populace, in order to win support of the general populace.

Ali Muhammad Khan Lundkhwar writes: “For the management of the baths there must have been staff or attendants, entrance guards, barbers and many others for making the process of bathing a luxurious relaxation.”

The building was built of small bricks with lime mixed with small pebbles and fragments of bricks as bounding material. Walls were thickly plastered and decorated with frescoes. The place was especially used to provide convenience to travellers; later traders used it as a store-house. However, today, it fails to capture the interest of the visitors.

The building was restored in 1990 and today it consists of two blocks; one-block houses a technical training college for women and the another (the main structure) is occupied by the tourist information centre by Punjab Tourism Development Corporation (they took over the building in 1992).

In 1992, the provincial government repainted its windows and restored the frescoes. However, already some of the fresco panels that have floral designs, geometric forms, have been damaged. Here one can witness exquisite impressions depicting trees (Cyprus), flowers (sunflower, daisy and lilies), grapevine, fruits, fairies and vases.

Richness of designs and the variety of colours is worth praising. But during a recent visit I discovered that a few of the fresco panels have been mutilated, by whitewashing! The indifferent and callous attitude of the authorities towards its restoration and maintenance of this magnificent piece of architecture is really sad.

During the Basant festival, the building becomes a centre of attraction, an official venue, where enthusiasts celebrate 24 hours of the day. Entertainment evenings like musical nights and mehfils are also held here. But selfish and careless visitors leave their marks. PTDC plans to turn the place into a hotel; the money that will be generated from here will go towards supporting the restoration process. Let’s hope for a positive out-come.

Adjacent to the Lahore Museum, in the premise of the Punjab Public Library, stands the magnificent building, Nakhlistan-i-Wazir. It is also known as Nakhlia or Baradari Wazir Khan. It was completed in about AD1635, after Wazir Khan had erected his most precious gem, the Wazir Khan Mosque. The Baradari was once a spacious garden, covering a vast area where during the Sikh period, the famous Qadam-ka-Mela used to be held. It is now occupied by the Punjab Public Library and Lahore Museum.

It has been recorded that invaders, including Ahmed Shah Abdali (in 1759) and Ranjit Singh (in 1799) stayed here after entering Lahore. During Ranjit Singh’s rule and the subsequent British days, the place was completely ruined and converted into a cantonment. In 1858, a District Museum was housed which was, a decade later, shifted to Tollington Market. The British army then converted the Baradari into a military station.

As Lundkhwar writes: “It was used to house a petty court, then a Settlement Office and thereafter the Telegraph Office. Later on it was used as a store for the museum and library and the reading room of the Book Club. Later the reading room developed into the Punjab Library, which was opened on 31st March 1885 by Charles Aitchison, Lieutenant Governor of the Punjab.”

Under the AMP Act 1975, the building was declared a protected monument in 1976. In 1982, the then president of Pakistan Zia-ul-Haque handed over the place to the Department of Archaeology with the sole purpose of having it restored.

Today, standing on a raised platform is a double storied building. In the central hall the ceiling has octagonal corner rows along with the soffits of the arches and rectangular galleries, painting in floral pattern carried out and dado, internally fully painted with uniform border. With fresco paintings and the exterior is decorated. Here too, careless whitewash has taken its toll.

However, the Lahore Museum lays claim to the custody of the Baradari. “The Punjab Library is an autonomous and registered body. We drafted a plan to convert the Baradari into Punjab Quranic Gallery — a research centre where material from Bait-ul-Quran (Department of Library) would be displayed,” said the Chief Librarian, Nusrat Ali Aseer. “Presently we have been utilizing it as a reading room, because for conversion we require funds and a plan is under consideration and awaiting for positive outcome all because of lack of funds. We also have been facing problem of space,” he continued.

However, the story isn’t over yet. The executive committee member and president of the Punjab Library Lifetime Members Association, Advocate Mian Khalid Habib Ellahi has sued the claimers (Lahore Museum and the NCA). He wants the place be made a part of the Punjab Library.

It is the demand of the time that authorities show some mercy. The historical structures having great tourist potetial, should be restored with its original grace and splendour.