There are many historical sites in Pakistan that need special care and government patronage so that they can be preserved

ONE of the historical sites that is not frequented by the average tourist or those out on a sight-seeing trip is the fort of Lord Baba Khem Singh Bedi, a prominent Sikh spiritual leader of Kallar Syedan, who was knighted for his ‘loyalty and invaluable services’ by Queen Victoria. He hailed from Una Sharif in Hushiarpur, East Punjab and came to this region somewhere between 1860 and 1865.

Bedi palace is exceptional because of its construction and workmanship and has the typical look of palaces built in that era. Khem Singh, being a perfectionist, hired the best masons from Attock, well-known for their expertise in Mugal architecture. The building, the biggest and tallest in the region, is made up of four stories with 45 rooms and two underground basements. Materials used in its construction include stone, marble, seasoned wood and baked bricks, while the plastering has been done with a fine paste of red clay and lime. It could be seen that every part of the building is well lit and ventilated and the walls are at least three feet wide, while the rooftop gives a fantastic, all round view of the whole area, both built-up and lush green countryside.

Bedi palace was previously surrounded by a large square fortified by a boundary wall that cast its shadow on long rows of servant quarters and stables for the many horses that the Bedi family kept for they were fond of riding and hunting. The large square is now, in part, a playing ground and part built-up area, where a government school has been constructed without taking into consideration the historical value of the site. The approach to the palace is appallingly filthy as you have to walk through narrow pedestrian alleys, with overflowing drains and garbage lying all around. A far cry from the levelled road that was built in 24 hours, all the way from Rawat, when the viceroy of India visited the palace during the Second World War. He came to seek the assistance of the Bedi family in this difficult period and the family took great pride in welcoming him.

It was interesting but heart-breaking to go around this small palace and inspect its architecture. It’s in a bad condition these days due to neglect and a ‘couldn’t care less’ attitude of the authorities who should be taking care of it. Used for many years by the government as a school for the children of the locality, its precious wall paintings depicting the Sikh culture and mythology have been ruined by the students who have scratched their names across faces and figures. White ants are running rampant in many parts of the woodwork, including the roofs and the beautifully carved windows and doors. The front door, which is a marvel of craftsmanship, is cracking and in need of measures to save it from disintegration. Walls and floors are slowly but surely being eroded for lack of upkeep and repair.

It is frustrating and a feeling of helplessness overcomes when you see the destruction taking place when it could so easily be stopped.

If this building had been anywhere else in the world it would have been preserved as a treasure and made a tourist attraction. Unfortunately, in Pakistan nothing is done to preserve and maintain historical monuments that are not only wonderful to look at, but also have a fascinating history as well. What are the people in charge of heritage doing? This palace needs to be renovated and refurbished to its original beauty and preserved as a heritage site.

Visitors from India, especially the Sikhs, are interested in the palace because of its historical value to their community. Since the palace was built in a predominantly Muslim area, Khem Singh had the foresight to carefully plan a strong defence and fortify it against attack. Many of their forefathers were saved from massacre by the Muslims during the partition, when they fortified themselves inside its four walls. With good weapons at hand and plenty of food to sustain them, everyone inside was kept safe until a contingent of the Gurkhas sent by the viceroy rescued them and provided a safe passage to India. They took along jewelry and personal belongings, but everything else was looted or gifted to influential politicians and dignitaries. A chandelier studded with precious and semi-precious was auctioned for just over Rs500. Elderly people living in the area have many stories to tell about the family and the palace and a young boy told how these stories have been passed down and have now become legends.

This palace has the potential to become a big attraction for all tourists, especially those interested in architectural sites of historical significance. Some fee for entry into the premises can provide money for its upkeep, but only after it is restored. These days, three of the school teachers are keeping an eye on the place as the school has been shifted to the new building mentioned above, while one of them is occupying a room in the building. Though they appear to be trying their best, they have neither the expertise nor the funds required for its upkeep.