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The Magazine

December 12, 2004




Talpur tombs at Drigh Bala



By Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro


Drigh Bala is a small, dusty village in Johi, Dadu that boasts the eighteenth century cemetery of the Talpurs. The village served as the first headquarters of the Talpurs after their migration from Punjab to the area in the seventeenth century. Subsequently, they ruled Sindh from 1783 to 1843. Their rule witnessed the construction of a large number of tombs scattered all over Sindh and the tombs erected at Drigh Bala are the oldest amongst all others.

The cemetery is spread over more than ten acres and is known to the locals as Mir Allah Yar Ja Quba. There are at least twelve mausolea in the cemetery of which five are prominent and belong to Mir Allah Yar Khan Talpur (the founder of Tando Allah Yar in Hyderabad) Mir Chhuto Khan, Mir Manik and Mir Suleman Khan, Khair Mohammad Jamali and Ghot and Kunwar (bridegroom and bride).

The tomb of Mir Allah Yar which dominates the adjoining tombs was built in 1731. It is a big tomb and carries an interesting array of panels that contain intriguing battle scenes and feature men and women sitting and talking with their attendants. However, the majority of the depictions have suffered defacing at the hands of some orthodox people. Nature too has played its part as is evident by the seeping rainwater.

Mir Allah Yar occupies a distinguished place in the annals of Talpur history for his contribution in the field of architecture, art and irrigation in Kachho (Dadu). During the rule of Mian Noor Mohammad Kalhoro, Mir Allah Yar took part in a number of successful military expeditions that earned him universal repute. He constructed a number of small fortress and some buildings for his residence in Khirthar of which only a few exist today. The fort that he built in Drigh Bala is still there, though in ruins. Local people hold that he also excavated some canals for irrigation and brought land under cultivation. He enjoyed a prestigious position in the court of Kalhoras due to his administrative efficiencies and capabilities. He was a very learned person and studied Persian along with Mir Tharo Khan from Abdul Rahim Girhori. He also composed his poetry in Persian.

To the north of the tomb of Mir Allah Yar lies the tomb of Mir Chhuto. His tomb is noted for beautiful murals chiefly depicting floral designs. To the northern side of the necropolis exist the dilapidated tomb of Mir Manik Khan, the father of Mir Allah Yar and Mir Chhuto. Apart from them his two other sons Mir Saindad and Mir Tharo are also buried in the necropolis.

There are two graves inside the tomb of Mir Manik, of which one belongs to Mir Manik and the other is said to be of the father of Mir Manik, Mir Suleman alias Kaku Khan. The dome of the tomb has caved in thus exposing the paintings to sunlight that has deteriorated most of the art. Nevertheless, it has survived some of which the monkey depictions are noteworthy. In addition to these, the grave of Mir Shaho Khan is also located in the cemetery. Mir Shaho Khan is the ancestor of Shahwani section of Talpurs.

The recent spell of monsoon rain that brought inundation in Nain Gaj stream harmed the necropolis. Since the graveyard is perched on the bank of the Nain Gaj, the inundation eroded much of the area making its way almost upto the tomb of Mir Allah Yar. When the floodwater receded it even exposed some of the graves. However, the exposure brought to light some interesting facts concerning the burial practices. Some corpses had jars placed ‘over’ them in an inverted position, a practice, which is not common among Muslims.

Authorities should take serious note of the damage brought by the inundation. If they are not serious and aren’t committed towards saving the historical tombs, we might lose their physical existence and find them only in written documents.



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