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The Magazine

October 3, 2004




A virtual dustbin of history



By Liaquat Rajper


IT is the irony of fate that instead of protecting and preserving our heritage, we in Pakistan, prefer to sit idly by and watch history turn to dust. The Sindh provincial departments of culture and archeology, as well as those of the Government of Pakistan, certainly seem to be behaving this way, especially in the case of the damaged, Mazar of Shah Baharo, situated in the suburb of Larkana city.

Shah Baharo was a brave, intelligent and undefeated General of Sindh. During the Kalhora period, he fought about 84 battles with various enemies: Khiljis, Sikhs and tribes of Balochs, Brohis and Pathans of Kandhar. When he was appointed as Administrator of Larkana Pargano, by the ruler of Sindh, Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro, he brought with him peace and prosperity in the area. A new vista of development was inaugurated with the excavation of irrigation channels, particularly Garrh Wah which are now in the hands of land grabbers.

Shah Baharo also excavated countless wells and established a number of villages and towns. One village, Baharpur (that holds his name) in the jurisdiction of Larkana Municipal Corporation.

General Shah Baharo was born on 21st November, 1665 in Boobak, a small village in Dadu district. His father, had him admitted in a school in Hyderabad. Here, Shah Baharo not only excelled in education, he also displayed an inkling for military genius. Following military training he quickly rose through the ranks and was appointed Administrator of Larkama Pargana where he had under his control, ten thousand troops.

Subsequently Baharo gained good reputation. Whenever, anywhere battle took place, Shah Baharo was called to lead the battles. His military genius led him to victory after victory, according him the title of Undefeated General of Kalhora period.

Once the Brohi tribe of Kalat violated an agreement and illegally occupied the area of Kaccho near Faridabad. This angered the ruler of Sindh who camped at Larkana and prepared a force under the command of Shah Baharo to teach the violators a lesson. The leader of Brohi tribe, Abdullah, with a force of forty thousand encountered Shah Baharo. A fierce battle ensued during which Abdullah was killed in action thus giving victory to Baharo’s forces.

It was the nature of Shah Baharo to wage war against oppressors and trample injustice under his feet. And this helped him prevail economic prosperity that in turn kept the people very happy with him which in turn kept him on the high pedestal in the eyes of the Ruler of Kalhora. It was during his time that the famous saying Hujai Nano Ta Ghum Larkanao (if you have money then come and see Larkana) came into being. Today, it’s the complete opposite.

Other than his military exploits, Shah Baharo was also known for his letterer inklings. He is reputed of have travailed to Arabia and on his return journey, brought back with him ten camels full of books. Subsequently he set up a library in Baharpur.

Shah Baharo died in 1735 as the great, undefeated general. Noor Muhammad Kalhoro built tomb in his tribute in 1773, where a number of graves, perhaps of the great general’s relatives, are also situated. The inscription on the tomb is written in Persian and many other commendable poetry in Persian is inscribed on the walls of the tomb.

Today, person who made Larkana a beautiful and prosperous city, is resting in the mazar that is in dilapidated condition. Area surrounding it has been encroached upon, stagnant rain water has produced waterlogging and salinity, damaging the tomb, peeling off plaster, eroding bricks, tiles and other decoration work.

Former deputy commissioner Muhammad Arif Khan took efforts and initiated a repair and renovation plan after discussion with the Archaeology Department. But it never got off the ground. There is no chowkidar or person who can maintain and keep the mazar clean, hence many precious bricks and tiles have been stolen. Besides, white ants have damaged the doors and windows of teak wood.

Even his library is not there anymore. General Baharo had even built a fort around Larkana to help protect the city from attack. Today, only remnants of the fort remain.



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