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The Magazine

July 25, 2004




Backward, but beautiful



By Liaquat Rajper


It is indeed a matter of grave concern that in an age where technology reigns supreme, people living in the mountainous areas of Sindh are not familiar with even basic facilities

IT is indeed a matter of concern that even in the 21st century, people of the mountainous areas of Sindh do not have basic facilities. Much to everyone’s disappointment, the authorities concerned do not give due importance to the region.

About 50km west of Larkana, there is a village called Gebidero, which reminds one of the famous Chandka Jagir that was once known as the largest Jagir in Asia. It is said that in those days a man riding a horse could not pass through the entire region in one day. Gebi Khan Chandio, the chief of the Chandio tribe, owned the Jagir. He was a very generous person.

These days, some people of the Chandio tribe and other casts like Chhutta and Gahecha live in the Khirthar Mountain Range that is a little far from Gebidero, and exists in a region where no vehicles can reach. Residents of the region have established two residential areas, one a bit downhill from the Khirthar mountains and the other on top of the mountains. They live on the mountains for 10 months where even in June and July the temperature oscillates between seven and 25 degrees Centigrade and in the winter it goes down upto minus seven. Comrade Wali Mohammad, who has visited the area on two to three occasions, told this scribe that people even in the summer use quilt at nighttime.

The people of the region are simple and hospitable. They cultivate wheat and vegetables only for their own consumption, because they cannot take the same to the market. If they want to do so, it takes three days to reach Kamber Ali Khan, which is a big taluka of the Larkana district. In case they require some other commodities, they ask one or two of their men to go to Kamber Ali Khan and fetch them. People of the area use donkeys and camels as their means of transportation. Their main source of income is cattle raising. Ninety per cent of the people here speak Sindhi, but with a different accent.

It would be surprising to note that there are many people in the region who have not been to or seen any town, not even Larkana. If they fall ill they prefer to apply their own conventional treatment methods or medicines rather than going to a big city for the purpose. They have never ever seen any doctor in their life and there are no Hakeems, no shops and no schools in the region. When a marriage takes place, a Nikah Khwan is called upon three days prior to the ceremony.

There is a quite high rate of mortality in the region and many new born babies lose their lives because of a lack of proper facilities that take care of infants. Despite the paucity of basic amenities in the area, the people here live in relative calmness. However, it is believed that the region is a sanctuary for outlaws who kidnap people from different towns and cities and bring them to this area where there are no law enforcement agencies. The police cannot trace these criminals due to very difficult terrain. Surprisingly, the outlaws do not disturb the area people, but when they spot their enemy, a battle between them is sure to take place. Having said that, in the recent past, some criminals did get caught because of the chief of the Chandio tribe, Sardar Shabbir Ahmed Khan, who helped the government in getting hold of the outlaws.

No one can hunt the animals that exist in the region without the permission of the Sardar. If anyone does so, he gets severely punished. Here one can find animals like hyenas, deer, ibex and crocodiles in big numbers.

There is a famous mountain Darrhyaro Jabal (Beard mountain) in the area which is about 7,000ft high. On top of the mountain, there is a grave of a dog that symbolizes the animal’s loyalty to his master. This area can become a tourist spot as visitors can witness the region in the summer season when it’s not as hot as many other parts of Pakistan. The area also has almond trees and is rich in precious stones and marbles.

The administration of the Larkana district has never paid attention to the needs of residents of the region, which made them get their names registered with the Kurkh Union Council of the Khuzdar district of Balochistan. The area is on the Sindh-Balochistan border, hence, the Balochistan government claims that it lies in its jurisdiction. But cartographic research and revenue record prove that it is in Sindh’s jurisdiction, falling in the Warah taluka of the Larkana district. It is believed that in 1901 it was so decided when Larkana was a part of the Shikapur district. Though, during British rule Charles Napier constructed a cemented tank here, demarcating the Sindh-Balochistan border.

Moreover, there is a Tri Chhunghi Nainh (three-way natural stream) which flows downwards thunderously, sometimes terrifying the life out of visitors. H.T. Lumburg, who was once the collector of Larkana, visited the area and declared it ‘the grand canyon of Sindh’.

The Khirthar mountains can be reached from three sides, mainly from Kamber Ali Khan and Warahand Shahdadkot areas.

For the initial distance, visitors have to use a jeep, later on, they have to ride camels and then donkeys to reach the destination. It is necessary for the tourists to bring alone medicines and some warm clothes with them in order to avoid illness. One can readily find mutton and beef rather than rice and pulse as food items here.

The government should pay attention to this area which has the potential for becoming a tourist spot. In this regard, a survey was conducted by the government led by Benazir Bhutto but unfortunately the project could not materialize.



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