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The Magazine

April 25, 2004




The samosa that went a long way



By Faisal Quraishi


It’s crispy, crunchy and full of meat. Yes, it’s the Karachi samosa that has gained countrywide Recognition for the city of crispy delights

A fine-tuned palate has always been the hallmark of Karachi’s populace, but expecting a measely morsel to make it all the way to the Khyber, a feat even the British rulers were unable to accomplish, and conquer the tastebuds of the rough and rugged Pukhtoons seems all to surreal. But the conquest has taken place, nevertheless.

The startling discovery was made by this writer during a somewhat recent stop-over in Lahore when a friend suggested satisfying our craving for a snack with a visit to a hot-spot in town. Soon, we were one of the many cars parked outside a make-shift eatery and being served a plateful of chutney and two meat samosay each with a side order of soft drinks. Taken aback, I asked my friend what the big deal was since such samosay were quite common all over Karachi. “Well, my friend,” he said “they are considered quite a delicacy here and people from all over Lahore flock to this place to relish them. I wouldn’t be surprised if the man selling them has become a millionaire,” he said while taking a bite of his samosa and rolling it in his mouth while making sounds at the back of his throat as if it was manna from Heaven. I could hardly believe my ears!

A few days later, in the twin cities of Rawalpindi/ Islamabad, while out cruising with a different set of friends, I noticed a swarm of people round a stall, like bees on honey. On taking a closer look, I found the snack bar selling what appeared to be the now infamous Karachi samosa. I asked a friend about the place and he told me that it was quite popular with people returning home after work, making a stopover to buy the samosay to enjoy with their families over afternoon tea. The Karachi samosa had done it again!

Onwards to Peshawar, the city of many sights and sounds, here splendid culinary treats and their drifting aromas largely remain confined here to Namak Mandi, where you can relish lamb tikka (if you have the stomach for it) and white chicken karhai. Again, finding a rather twisted version of the Karachi samosa on the menu at some sweetmeat shops in Peshawar was totally unexpected. It has yet to find favour with the palate of the Pukhtoons since the distant Northern cousin of the Karachi samosa is not as appetizing as its Southern counterparts. The filling is anything but the fine blend of minced meat, spices and herbs, often compromised for chunky potatoes to cut expenses. Understandably, it has failed to find favour with the local population, who are more into traditional foods and don’t like to experiment much with what they eat. Case in point: try finding an authentic Chinese restaurant in the whole of Peshawar. Chances are that your search will end in futility.

A similar case is that of Quetta which is closer to Karachi and attracts a lot of visitors to and fro. But here, too, the average Balochi eyes the Karachi samosa with contempt and suspicion, a work of dubious forces at play and something that will give him indigestion, if nothing less.

Finally, back home in Karachi and I was eager to share the conquests of the Karachi samosa with family, friends and colleagues. However, much to my dismay, it was heard with a certain twisted sense of humour with nobody ready to believe that such a tender morsel could make it so big in the culinary world.

As for me, I will never underestimate the awesome gastronomical power of the mighty Karachi samosa ever again. It has earned my respect and never again will I look at another qeemay ka samosa the same way for as long as I live. I have seen the light and lived to tell the tale!



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