Though known as the Twin Cities, the attitude of the people living in Islamabad towards those in Rawalpindi is at times quite tardy

RAWALPINDI and Islamabad are called the “Twin Cities” by some people, a misnomer if ever there was one! “Sister cities” is a more apt description, if you regard Rawalpindi as the older, more mature one and Islamabad as the more beautiful, young and glamorous. The capital, they say, is the “in” place to settle in because of its comparatively better civic facilities and environment. While it is getting more crowded by the day, there are still many open spaces and lots of greenery to give you the feeling that you are living somewhere else.

The fact that people who live in Islamabad look down their nose at anyone who lives in Pindi, is also a matter of irritation for Pindiites and a debate is likely to occur when they discuss the matter. Both cities have their own plus and minus points and Pindiites are as possessive about their city as anyone else.

There is another saying which those who do not know much about the capital like to quote, that “it has no soul, no character.” They have obviously not been here to see for themselves that the city now has many more art galleries, eating places and places of entertainment than before.

Discussions and seminars are held on a regular basis, musical programmes and poetry readings are part of the cultural scene, while more facilities like parks and Food Malls are in the pipeline to enhance the ambience of a living city and make it more attractive to residents as well as visitors. With the imposing buildings along the Constitution Avenue, its posh residential areas and mostly wide roads, Islamabad is definitely a city we can be proud of and is rapidly acquiring the “soul” happening cities possess.

Anything of importance that happens, takes place in Islamabad and that Pindi is neglected is a sore point with its residents. The fact is even if by chance someone organizes an event in Pindi, not many people from the sister city will show up! Another example of how the residents of the capital view their “paindoo” neighbours. After all, how could anything interesting happen in a place which has such a name!

Rawalpindi on the other hand, is in a time warp and has an old world charm that is heartwarming, though unfortunately this is slowly getting eroded by unchecked commercialism, while it’s soul is also fading away as far as cultural activities are concerned.

Beautiful old buildings that used to be an attraction for visitors are being knocked down to make way for ugly plazas. In the inner city areas some houses with wooden balconies still stand, a testimony to the glory of days gone by when beauty and style were concepts one lived with.

Pindi has its wide avenues as well, the result of the increasing vehicular traffic and modernization, but it’s the bazaars in the narrow lanes that are fascinating, especially for female shoppers. Even the ladies of Islamabad, with their shopping malls and boutiques, flock here to shop for clothes, jewelry and other things.

In the heart of the city is the old fort which is now a residential/ shopping area. Embroidery and jewelry shops flourish here by the hundreds and many a collector has come away with a treasure or two tucked under his/her arms after browsing through the brass and copper shops.

Rawalpindi has a few eating places but they can by no means be called posh, unless you go into the PC or the new “Rendevous” a place President Musharraf likes to visit now and again. The restaurants that are frequented provide the basic amenities with no frills, while the food is very good and reasonably priced.

The Chinese restaurants are like their counterparts everywhere in Pakistan and the ones that exist are popular both in the capital and Pindi. When Pindiites want to splurge or take guests out for a treat, they make a beeline for Islamabad, where you can find restaurants serving cuisine from many parts of the world, as well as the basic Pakistani-style eating places. The Melody Food Court, which has outlets of nearly all the big restaurants in its enclosure, has become very popular because of its atmosphere and the fact that you can eat outdoors.

Pindi has one other advantage and that is its big, beautiful parks. Ayub National Park, one of the biggest in Pakistan, the 502 Park, the Race Course Park are well kept and maintained, mainly because they fall under the purview of the army. The first two parks have nice walking tracks, playing facilities for children, restaurants and miniature zoos, while the third is being developed. There are also numerous small parks that are a hub of activity in the evenings when those who want to breathe fresh clean air or let their children play, gather in great numbers. Islamabad has its Fatima Jinnah Park, impressive in size but lacking in beauty and the Argentina Park, (named after Argentina and Islamabad were named “sister cities”!) which is rather neglected, while the Japanese Park has been given up as a lost cause, for some reason. The Rose and Jasmine Garden is a popular place and quite well-kept, used mainly as a venue for flower shows, when it is magnificent with flowers of the season. The area in which Islamabad is one up is in its walking trails that have been made in the Margala hills, where diplomats, bureaucrats and others take their “daily constitutional” to keep fit.

A comparison of the houses and buildings in the sister cities is interesting for those who would like to compare the old with the new. “Pindi’s old presidency, the home of a private person before partition, has the beauty and grace of the regal architecture of days gone by . It was sad to see it converted into a university for women. It should have been preserved and made into a museum. The contrast between it and the presidency in Islamabad is very marked as the one in Isloo (Islamabads nom-de-plume!) is very modern, with straight lines and a rectangular shape, impressive but by no means beautiful. The same contrast can be observed between the old residence of the Prime Minister, a large sprawling building in Pindi spread over a lush green area that characterized buildings of the colonial era and its counterpart in Islamabad. Big and sprawling as well, “grand” is the word to describe it, but it too does not match the older one in beauty.

Besides the new presidency and the National Assembly, Constitution Avenue has two other big buildings, the Supreme Court and the Prime Minister’s Secretariat - a wasteful extravagance by any count - on one side and a number of others on the opposite side, including the Foreign Office. This used to be the Hotel Scherazade at one time, but expediency caused it to be converted for a more useful purpose. Pindi has no pretensions to high rise buildings, because building laws did not allow it in days gone by but there are a few that have multiple storeys, while the Blue and Mauve Areas in Islamabad have seen a mushroom growth of these during the last few years. Just off this avenue, the Diplomatic Enclave is developing slowly but surely as more countries build their embassies and ambassadors residences, all of them big, modern and impressive but not really striking or giving a flavour of architecture from their own country.

Those who live in Islamabad have that satisfied air about them that others sometimes envy. If you complain about things being different in Rawalpindi, they ask “Why don’t you shift to Islamabad,?” adding, with just a touch of superiority, “It’s so much better here.”

But things are changing. Now you sometimes get a list of complaints in return because the glamourous sister city is aging and will in time become like cities all over Pakistan unless some checks and balances are put in place to keep uncontrolled expansion at bay. As it is, those who live in the less posh and crowded areas are quick to say that Islamabad’s beauty is only skin deep and if you scratch the surface its true face will appear.