“Ladies and gentlemen, in few minutes, Insha Allah, we will be landing at the Zhob Airport. Passengers are requested to fasten their seat belts.”
This announcement brought a relief to many passengers. Weary of air-pockets and jerks, we were nearing the end of quite a bumpy ride as the aircraft crossed over the famous Sulaiman Mountain Range near Dera Ismail Khan. The plane descended slowly into the narrow terrain below, as we glided over orchards with vines stretched over a huge land. We were on our way to the oldest and fascinating border town, Fort Sandeman, or as it is now called, Zhob.
It was October and the chilly Siberian winds were blowing against the small Zhob airport. Zhob constitutes an important geo-strategic position. Situated at an altitude of 4790 feet above the sea level, it is 333km to the east of the provincial capital, Quetta. To the West is the Afghan provinces of Zabul and Kahir. Zhob is also connected by land with Punjab and the NWFP. It was its strategic importance that led to the British conquering it as part of their expansionist policies.
Zhob, as British outpost came to prominence in 1890 when as part of the British policies, it was raised to the status of a tribal agency and district. Captain I. Mac Ivor was appointed as its first Political Agent.
Before the British conquest, Zhob was actually a small village called Apozai. Named after an ancient tribe, Zhob’s original name was Apozai. Zhob is the name of an ancient river that is also a major source of irrigation for the valley. The area had been under subjugation of many ancient rulers until it fell into the control of Yousafzai chieftains during the Mughal period. In 1780, two tribes, Mandokhel and Abdulzai united and drove the Yousafzai out. The Mandokhel’s and the Abdulzai’s remained in control of the area till the British conquered the area. Thereafter it was named after the British Governor General of Baluchistan, Sir Robert Sandeman. The town was renamed Zhob in 1976 by Z.A. Bhutto.
During the days of the Raj, a garrison was raised here to look after the rail and road development of the area. the cantonment there held an army unit and a squadron of the Royal Air Force. The houses of officers constructed in that time, reflect Victorian style of construction. They are still in good shape. The boundary wall surrounding the houses was guarded by the militiamen, to prevent an attacks by tribal insurgents. One major source of headache for the British was Pale Khan of Khost. According to local legend, he posed a major threat to the British lives in Zhob. He and his men attacked the houses, convoys and even the garrison until a truce was made between him and the administration. Local ballads still praise his brave and courageous actions against the oppressors.
A narrow gauge rail was established in the 1910s to link the city with Quetta and Chaman. The gauge served as an important source of transportation for the local people until it was abandoned by Pakistan Railways in 1985.
Two of the important buildings raised by the British, both on hill mounds, are the Castle and the Zhob Militia Mess. The Castle since 1895 has been serving as the official residence of the Political Agent. The Castle is a splendour of British architecture. It contains around 10 rooms, two spacious halls with wooden floors — once the avenue for dancing and social gatherings of the officers and their spouses. “No Indian was allowed to go to the Castle except the ones serving there”, said a 90-year old Shaboor Khan whose uncle served as an orderly in the Castle. A piano from the British days is still present and functioning there. As mentioned on its front lid, it was made by the S. Rose & Co. Fort Bombay for the castle in 1921.
The Mess, raised in 1890, has been occupied by the Frontier Constabulary. The Zhob Militia is one of the oldest militia around. In its heyday, it used to be responsible for the law and order of more than half of British Balochistan. While visiting the Mess, do take a peek at the Visitor’s Book and go through the remarks of the famous.
The absolute majority of Zhob population is Pashtu speaking. They are divided into different tribes. The leading tribes are Mandokhel, Sherani, Kakar and Suliemankhel. The Suliemankhel and Sherani inhabit the both sides of border stretched along 400Km.
By Baluchistan’s standards, today Zhob is a major town. It caters to a population of more than 150,000. The population inflated after people from neighbouring Afghanistan poured in during the Saur Revolution of 1979. Like many towns of Baluchistan, Zhob displays its Afghan influence in the food that is served here at the restaurants and the labour available. During the summers, the population of the town expands as people from neighbouring D.I. Khan, D.G. Khan and Multan visit it. In fact, Zhob, for its cool breezes can be developed as a summer station. Those who do come here for the summer, some of them rent seasonal houses, both inside and outside the town. A few of them even own their own houses.
“The climate is very healthy and its water is pure and rich in mineral, but like many other tribal areas of Pakistan, due to the tribal setup and lack of tourism development, people do not come here in large number,” says Zafar Qadir who served as the Political Agent of Zhob.
The town is stretched around three kilometres square-miles. The main or the old bazaar is expanded over time is spacious. It contains hero markets side by side called William Fruit and Vegetable Markets. A feature of the bazaar in the end is the timber market where timber from Afghanistan, as well as the Sulaiman Range is imported/smuggled into for sale.
“Ladies and gentlemen, in few minutes, Insha Allah, we will be landing at the Zhob Airport. Passengers are requested to fasten their seat belts.”
