Controlling pests in the kitchen garden
By Saeed Ahmad Khan and H.A. Khan
Kitchen gardens may seem easy to maintain until invaded by pests. When that happens, it’s time to take effective actions
KITCHEN gardens are popular for various reasons. People may start a kitchen garden perhaps to supplement the food budget, to get high quality food, or simply to experience the joy of watching plants grow. However, gardeners are disappointed when diseases or other pests become such a problem that the yields are reduced or non-existent.
Nematodes are one of the more serious pests of vegetables and are often responsible for reduced yields. Nematodes are worm-like animals visible only under the microscope. It is for this reason that nematodes have been termed as “hidden enemies” or tiny but mighty enemies of the crops. There are many kinds of nematodes that attack all types of plants. Some nematodes are specific to a particular crop, whereas others are polyphagous i.e. attacking several crops. They need food for survival which they obtain by sucking the roots of plants with an organ known as stylet. In this way, they cause direct mechanical injury to the plants and disturb its systems biochemically. When roots are punctured by nematodes, other micro-organisms present in the soil attack the roots and cause damage to them. This is called secondary invasion.
The most common nematode problem in vegetable gardens is that of root-knots. As a result of the feeding activities of these nematodes, plant roots become swollen and form root galls. Nematodes are also known as endoparasitic nematodes. Due to heavy root-knot nematode infection, plants become more susceptible to drought stress, root-rots, and the yields are very low and below standard. These nematodes attack nearly every vegetable grown in Pakistan.
Root-knot galls distort the tissue that conducts food and nutrients to the upper part of the plant. Various kinds of nematodes damage and interfere with the growth of the plants as well as the supply of food and water that the plant gets from the soil. The easiest of the nematode diseases to recognize is root-knot, caused by nematodes of various species of the genus Meloidogyne. They are called root-knot nematodes. The typical simple galls are best observed on younger roots, giving an appearance of beads on a string. Galls have several short adventitious roots that rise from the upper part and make the root appear bushy.
On larger roots, compound galls may be an inch or more in diameter. Severely infected roots show a clubbed appearance. Often there is considerable rotting of the roots, particularly late in the season. Identification of the galls is made by breaking them open and looking for the nematodes. Usually the adult females are found, that are pear-shaped, white and are large enough to be seen with the naked eye. The egg masses of root-knot nematodes are also fairly easy to see. They are brown in colour, often as large as the nematodes and are found clinging to the side of the roots. Sometimes the male, a slender worm quite different from the female, can also be found in the egg mass.
There are several methods that can be used to control nematodes and to minimize the damage they cause in vegetable gardens. Some of these methods are more effective than others and quite often it takes a combination of methods to optimize the results.
PREVENTIVE MEASURES
The time of planting: Vegetable such as peas, radish, lettuce, potatoes, carrots, when planted in early spring, while susceptible to root-knot nematodes, can be grown in infested soil and they suffer only minor damage. This is due to the facts that when these vegetables are sown, the soil temperature is too cold for nematode activity. Thus, the plants escape from serious damage. However, these vegetables can suffer extensive damage when sown in late spring because at that time the soil temperature may be ideal for nematode activity.
Resistant varieties: Some vegetable varieties have been developed which are resistant to root-knot nematodes and produce a good crop even in the nematode-infested soil. Nematodes cannot feed or reproduce on these resistant varieties. The use of resistant varieties is more effective when combined with crop rotation. Alternating root-knot resistant varieties and susceptible vegetable varieties within a given portion of the garden from one year to the next can reduce the overall nematode problem and prevent the build-up of high nematode population densities. This practice will reduce the possibilities for serious damage to susceptible vegetables.
Crop rotation: This is one of the most economical and easiest methods of reducing losses due to nematodes. Rotation is simply the practice of not growing a certain vegetable crop in the same site for more than one year. Frequently, simply moving a highly susceptible crop a few feet will reduce the damage done by nematode. Also, if space is available, the entire garden site may be moved after a year or so. Otherwise, for example, it may be possible to grow a root-knot resistant variety of tomatoes in a given site one year and follow it with a crop of beans the following year without suffering a great deal of loss in yield. As long as the same vegetable is not grown year after year in the same site, reduction in yield loss should be minimum. It is easier to plan a rotational programme by dividing the garden site into three portions.
Early fall clean-up: It is another method to minimize root-knot nematode damage by removing each crop as soon as harvest is completed, followed by frequent tillage of the soil, at least two to three times. It is also helpful to till the entire garden two to three times in the fall and to plant a winter cover crop of annual rye grass. The tilling operation will destroy the plant roots and prevent further reproduction of the nematodes. It will also expose the nematodes to the drying action of the sun and wind which will result in the death of some nematodes.
By maintaining optimum conditions for plant growth — such as pH, fertility and soil moisture, etc. — one can enable plants to tolerate light to moderate nematode attack and will make the plants less susceptible to other stresses. Frequent incorporation of organic matter into the soil is also beneficial as it will improve the soil structure and moisture retention, and will encourage natural biological control of nematodes. The above methods of controlling nematodes are preventive measures. Preventive measures are more cost effective and environmentally less hazardous. Stress ought to be laid on preventive technologies. Further preventive measures are more practicable and easily understandable to farmers.
CONTROL THROUGH CHEMICAL TREATMENT
Curative measures, which include control through chemicals, are hazardous. There are several chemicals, both liquid and granular materials, that are used for nematode control. The fumigant materials will do a better job of killing nematodes than the granular materials.
In a well-prepared soil, the chemical fumes will penetrate uniformly to provide good nematode control. These nematicides are very toxic to plants and must be applied to the soil at least two to four weeks before planting to give them time to escape from the soil. The soil should be prepared about two weeks before fumigant application. Thoroughly tilt the soil, remove all coarse root pieces which might protect the nematodes. Be sure that the soil is moist and all the clods are broken.
No pesticides treatment provides perfect control. It is not possible to completely eliminate a pest from an agricultural farm, but the losses can be checked and minimized by keeping the population of the pest at a reasonably low level. The fumigants will reduce nematode populations at the beginning of the season so that plants can get off to a good start and produce good yield. By the end of the season, you may have as many nematodes as if no fumigant had been applied. Rotation, resistant varieties and other practices described above should be combined with the soil fumigation to obtain the best control of nematodes.
A few fumigants are: Dichloropropene — dichloropropane (D-D), Dichloropropene (DBCP), Ethylene-dibromide (EDP), Methylisothiocyanate 15% + D-D85%, Sodium methyle dithiocarbamate (SMDC).
Nematologists of PCSIR have also developed an indigenous nematicide, TenekilM, which can significantly control ecto and endo parasitic nematodes.
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