About 50 kilometres from Karachi, on the Karachi-Thatta highway, one comes across a signboard giving directions to the once famous fort of Bhambore. As one turns into the small road, it takes about 15 minutes to reach Bhambore. Once, River Indus used to flow just along the outskirts of Bhambore and that made this small town a bustling trading port. But when Indus changed its course, Bhambore lost its strategic significance. Today, the once mighty Bhambore is no more than a desert ruin, and is known for its historical and archeological significance.
Bhambore was primarily divided into two areas; one was the fort and the other was the settlement around it. Excavation by the Department of Archeology started in the 60s and led to interesting revelations. History of the place dates back to Setho-Parthian era (1BC-AD1). Though historians differ on the issue, Bhambore has all the resemblance to the famous port of Debal which Muhammad-Bin-Qasim conquered in AD712. Once you reach the fort, a guide from the Department receives you.
Just before entering the fort, the visitor comes across the industrial area known as Dhobi ghat. This is the place where the washer-man, who adopted Sassi, used to live. This is one story that the guide loves to narrate the story.
Sassi was born to a Hindu couple, who had been childless for many years, in Sehwan. She was born after many prayers, but a Hindu priest made the prophecy that Sassi would marry a Muslim when she grows up. Thus, her father was advised to throw the baby into the Indus. With a heavy heart, Sassi’s parents put her in a basket and threw her into the Indus. But as luck would have it, a washer-man at Bhambore found the basket flowing in the river. To his surprise the basket carried a beautiful baby and out of love for the young soul, the washer-man took the baby to his house. Sassi turned into a young beautiful woman. Here the folklore takes a dramatic turn.
A Baloch prince came to the area to sell perfumes and pulses. When Pannu, the Baloch prince, saw Sassi, he fell in love with the beautiful girl. The love between the two grew and they decided to marry.
When Pannu’s family heard about the affair they tried to stop Pannu from marrying a washer-man’s daughter. But they were not successful. It is here that Pannu’s brothers decided to take extreme measures. The whole family accepted Pannu’s decision to marry Sassi and on the wedding night, Pannu’s family came with loads of gifts for the couple. On getting a chance, Pannu’s brothers gave Pannu some drugs that made him unconscious. Seizing the opportunity, Pannu’s family took him back.
On failing to find her love anywhere, Sassi wandered into the wilderness to find Pannu. During her search, she came across a shepherd who tried to seduce her. But the loyal Sassi prayed to God that the earth may open and consume her. God heard her prayer and, subsequently, she disappeared from the face of the earth.
When Pannu woke up, he became angry at not finding Sassi anywhere. He immediately set out in search for her. Eventually, he reached the place where Sassi had become buried and he found her chadar there. Mad with grief, Pannu prayed to God for the same fate as that of his beloved. Again, God listened and Pannu opened up to take him in so that he could live with his love happily ever after.
The place of the burial of Sassi and Pannu is now identified as Uthal, in Kech Makran area of Lasbela, where an annual urs is still held.
The fort has three main entrances, out of which the southern one opens towards the sea. The southern door is also referred to as Bab-ul-Islam. Till today, this door is in good condition. In the fort, Hindus and Muslims used to live side-by-side and with maximum religious freedom which should be an eye-opener for us.
The places of interest in the fort include the main mosque, probably the oldest mosque in the subcontinent. There is a place in the centre of the fort identified by historians as the point where the flag of Raja Dahir used to flutter. It was that very flag which was successfully blown of by Qasim’s manjaneeq and, thus, led to the fall of Debal. The site of an ancient mandir, where Hindus worshipped, can also be visited.
The breeze is cool at Bahmbore. The view from the fort is eye-catching, with the vast Indus delta and green trees spreading far into the horizon. The waters of Garo creek rise to the Bab-ul-Islam during moonlit nights. The valour of Qasim and the romance of Sassi and Pannu, give the tourist a uniquely pleasant experience. There is a rest house available at the site but it is without electricity.
Bhambore is a highly recommended place for a day-visit from Karachi. Besides the ancient attractions of the place, the efficient guides there add to the pleasure of the trip.
About 50 kilometres from Karachi, on the Karachi-Thatta highway, one comes across a signboard giving directions to the once famous fort of Bhambore. As one turns into the small road, it takes about 15 minutes to reach Bhambore. Once, River Indus used to flow just along the outskirts of Bhambore and that made this small town a bustling trading port. But when Indus changed its course, Bhambore lost its strategic significance. Today, the once mighty Bhambore is no more than a desert ruin, and is known for its historical and archeological significance.
