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November 16, 2003
REVIEWS: He went, he saw and was impressed
Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin is probably the first known Indian to have visited Britain and Europe in 1766. He recorded his observations and comments on his return to India in Persian, the language he knew best, titling his memoirs Shigurf Nama-i- Vilayet (Wonderful Tales about Europe). This is a rare piece of literature since there are very few known writings by non-Western writers about Europe and Europeans of that particular period. It is Orientalism in reverse.
The East India Company employed Sheikh I’tesamuddin as a munshi. This position was not as a mere scribe as the word suggests, his training at the time had prepared him as a scholar of Persian, at the time the official language. His abilities to advice as an administrator, diplomat and knowledge of local laws made him an indispensable asset to the Company.
It was an accident of fate, that he was chosen by Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II, as his emissary, to take the Mughal king’s petition to the court of St James. Mirza had accompanied Robert Clive, his employer, when Shah Alam was forced to sign away the revenue of all Bengal to the East India Company in perpetuity. The Mughals were reduced to a mere rubber stamp for any demands from the Company, as it was then the new emerging power on the subcontinent after the victory at Plassey in 1757. Robert Clive had no limit to his greed and the old trading company was quickly turning into a colonial empire.
Shah Alam II was besieged with enemies all around, and Marhattas and Rohillahs threatened his authority and his capital Delhi. The once Great Mughal Empire was now a mere shadow of its past.
Shah Alam II in return demanded that Clive agree to provide His Britannic Majesty’s troops to protect him from his enemies. It was not within Robert Clive’s jurisdictions to accede to this demand and the matter had to be referred to England to King George III. A letter of request was drafted and it was agreed to send it along with a gift of Rs1000,000. For his knowledge of Persian, I’tesamuddin was required to be at hand to explain and translate the contents. Hence he was Shah Alam’s choice to accompany Captain Swinton, who was entrusted with the letter. The Mughal king conferred the title Mirza on him, elevating him to the status of a courtier, in recognition of his trustworthiness.
Mirza left on this long journey in late January of 1766, on board Monsieur Courville’s ship from Higelee harbour. After a week on board, Captain Swinton informed him that Clive had kept the letter and the money and had promised to follow soon and bring these with him to present to King George.
Mirza was a highly educated and cultured gentleman of his time and not a colonial subject in any sense. His astute observations and comments are a testimony to his curiosity and independence of mind. He travelled through Mauritius, Madagascar and the Cape to the French port of Nantes. From here he takes a boat to the English port of Dover.
He is welcomed in London’s society, as many are desirous of learning about India and learning Persian so that they can seek their fortune in that exotic land. Mirza makes trips to Oxford and Scotland, spending a little over a year, before returning to his native land as he was getting home sick. He was disappointed that Clive had not fulfilled his promise and Mirza’s mission was scuttled by duplicity.
Mirza is keenly interested in the social, cultural, economics, mode of governance and the education system of these foreign lands and made many useful comments on them comparing them to the prevailing practices in India of those days. He was impressed by the advances in science, the plans of cities, the organization of society, the rule of law, religious practices and class structure. He was appreciative of good governance and justice.
This caused him to look critically at the corrupt system at home that had reduced the rulers to weaklings at the mercy of foreigners. It left the public at large in perpetual poverty and misery. His conclusions on body politics of India of the late 18th century could equally be true today.
He was certainly bewitched by the tall, fair haired, fair skinned women as much as by their beauty and their freedom to choose their men on their own terms. But he was fully aware of his place in society and when his hosts suggested that “you are all alone in this country, why don’t you take a wife?” he answered that: “It is impossible for me to marry here because of two reasons. The first is that any women I wish to marry won’t have me. The second is any woman who might be willing to have me I can’t approve of. What I mean is that though I am considered well-born in my country a well-born Englishwoman cannot consider a union with a foreigner of a different religion. Likewise an Englishwoman of inferior class may be willing to marry me but I would not have her.”
Mirza debated on religious matters as a Muslim with strict dietary habits. He would eat only halal food and had taken a servant with him to do the cooking for him. We learn little about his observance of other religious obligations, such as fasting and prayers, as the book contains no mention of these. But his adherence to halal food became one of the reasons for his falling out with his host and declining further travels in Europe.
Kaiser Haq, Professor of English at Dhaka University has unearthed this long forgotten document of historical importance. As such it is a modern day translation — the first to appear in English since 1827. The translation is excellent and the book is very readable.
One can only guess what would have been the course of history had King George III agreed to the Mughal king’s request, if the letter had been presented to him. The famous Clive of India, who on his return was tried on corruption charges, died a disappointed and disillusioned man. He failed to earn his nation’s respect in his lifetime that he so much craved.
The Wonders of Vilayet
By Mirza Sheikh I’tesamuddin
Translated by Kaiser Haq
Peepal Tree Press Ltd, 17 Kings Avenue, Leeds LS6 1QS, England
ISBN 1-900715-15-5
152pp. £10.99
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