The good, the bad & the Lyari

Published Mar 28, 2012 06:58pm

Considered to be one of the most desperate slum areas in South Asia, Lyari is also the oldest locality of Pakistan’s sprawling, unpredictable and edgy metropolis, Karachi.

In the last decade or so, Lyari has constantly been appearing in the news whenever Karachi erupts into ethnic or gang-related violence. This is not to suggest that this area was a bastion of peace before the 2000s; but it is true that the political and criminal violence emerging within and from Lyari in the last 10 years has had a bigger impact on Karachi than ever before.

Criminal gangs dealing in drugs, guns, kidnapping and land scams with some of them even enjoying patronage from assorted political outfits and groups are a common sight in the narrow, crooked and overpopulated streets of Lyari.

But all this was not a sudden phenomenon emerging in the last decade or so. Nor is this all what Lyari is about.

Lyari also has a rich political and cultural history; a history that, rather ironically, has to be understood for anyone trying to make head or tails of the constant social and political turmoil and strife this large, awkward locality has been experiencing almost on a daily basis now.

First in line

Lyari is by far the oldest locality of Karachi having begun life centuries ago as a small fishing village.

Lyari in early 19th century.

The locality always had a large Afro-Indian/Pakistani population (Sheedis).

The Sheedis are believed to be the descendants of slaves, sailors, servants and merchants from East Africa who arrived between 1200 and 1900 AD.

In what is today Pakistan, these slaves largely settled along the Markran Coast in Balochistan (they are also called Makranis) and in lower Sindh.

Linguistically, they speak variations of Balochi and Sindhi and (in Karachi) they are also known to have created a distinct dialect of Urdu referred to as ‘Makrani’ in which Urdu words are mixed with Balochi and Sindhi expressions and even popular English terms, manly picked up from British and US films and TV series, are also regularly used, mostly in a tongue-in-cheek way.

Most Sheedis in Karachi were and still are associated with the fishing business (as fishermen, sailors and small boat operators). They also constitute the largest labour force employed at the Karachi port and harbour.

Over the years, especially after the creation of Pakistan in 1947, Lyari also began to witness the influx of Pushtuns, Sindhis and Mohajirs (including Memons) and (in the last 30 years), many working-class Afghans, Bengalis and Burmese migrants have also settled here.

The area is a working-class reflection of the stunning ethnic, religious and sectarian diversity that is the hallmark of Karachi’s bulging cosmopolitanism and indigenous secularism.

But Lyari is also the area that hardly benefited from the industrial growth and economic progress that Karachi enjoyed between the 1950s and early 1980s.

In fact by the late 1960s Lyari was well on its way to becoming a modern, urban slum.

The right stuff

But all this did not just produce a locality riddled with only crime, violence and economic desperation. The equation of poverty, overpopulation, diversity, crime, radical politics and the presence of a majority having a proud African lineage also gave birth to a working-class polity, spirituality and aesthetics that have generated a unique cultural scenario.

A young Lyari girl in a traditional ‘Makrani dress’ at a wedding. –Photo courtesy South Asia News.

It is this mix that has correctly painted a perception of Makranis as being open-minded, large-hearted, hard-working people who speak a distinct slang-riddled version of street-Urdu and are passionate about football, boxing and the movies.

Some of the best international level boxers in Pakistan have almost all emerged from Lyari and same is the case with football. It is also perhaps the only area in Pakistan where these two sports actually overshadow cricket!

Two Lyari football fans in Brazilian soccer jerseys. -Photo courtesy Akhtar Soomro.

A majority of Makranis belong to the so-called Sunni ‘Barelvi’ school of faith – an indigenous sub-continental variation of ‘folk Islam’ that emerged in the 18th century as a reaction against the rise of puritanical Islamic movements.

Barelvi Islam is not a concrete doctrine. In essence it is highly decentralised and anti-dogma. It connotes the practice in which sub-continental folk mores are fused with the ritualism of Sufi Islam and the pluralistic and ‘poor-friendly’ culture of devotional music, charity and festivity found around shrines of Sufi saints across Pakistan and India.

Shrine keepers feed one of the many crocodiles at the shrine of Pir Mangho. -Photo courtesy AP

Most Makranis of Lyari are the devotees of the legendary 12th century Sufi saint, Pir Mangho, whose shrine in the Mangopir area of Karachi is believed to be one of the oldest in the city.

The shrine also has hot sulphur springs and a large pond where the shrine’s keepers have harvested crocodiles for hundreds of years. Feeding these reptiles is considered to be a celestially ordained and beneficial ritual.

The Makranis come here in their hundreds, especially during the birth celebrations of the saint. Here they re-enact the dancing, musical and devotional rituals of their African ancestors.

Donkey cart racing is a highly popular sport in Lyari. Bets are placed on races that begin in Lyari and end on the beaches of Karachi’s Clifton area. -Photo courtesy Akhtar Soomro.

Between the late 1970s and 1990s Lyari also produced its own music scene, popularly known as ‘Lyari disco’.

Music has always played a major role in the lives of the people of Lyari, both in the spheres of faith and entertainment – especially music driven by pounding and rhythmic drumbeats.

One of the first areas outside the privileged populace of Karachi to embrace the invasion of classical American and European disco music of the late 1970s was Lyari.

Throughout the 1980s dimly-lit small recording studios sprang up in Lyari where talented young Makrani men and women would record bouncy Balochi tunes that fused basic disco beats with traditional Balochi and African musical dynamics.

First the resultant albums were almost entirely bought and sold in Lyari but a massive ‘Lyari disco’ hit by one Shazia Khushk (a Sindhi) helped the genre to break out and turn Khushk into a national sensation.

The song was ‘Bija Teer Bija’ – recorded (at a Lyari studio) and released in 1988, it was a funky, driven tribute to the charismatic chairperson of the Pakistan Peoples Party (PPP), Benazir Bhutto.

The song was first used by the PPP during its electoral campaign for the November 1988 general election.

People’s power

Recently, Lyari has been treated by the media as an area whose politics is rather complex. This is mainly due to the growing influx of working-class people belonging to various ethnicities settling here. With them have arrived attempts by different political parties close to these ethnicities to carve out a vote bank for themselves in Lyari.

Also related to this is the way street crime, land scams and politics have mixed in Karachi in the last two decades in which street thugs and gangs have been used by political parties to generate funds and garner votes.

The complexities in this respect are further heightened when some gangs and criminals ‘become too big for their boots’ and become an embarrassment for the parties, especially when gang warfare conducted purely on criminal grounds become politicised due to the gangsters’ past or present association with political parties.

In the last few years, Lyari has become a hotbed of this particular phenomenon in Karachi. Otherwise, its politics has remained rather uncomplicated.

A video grab showing members of a radical Baloch outfit replacing the Pakistan flag with a Bloch nationalist flag at a college in Lyari.

Ever since the 1970 general election, Lyari has been an unbending vote bank of the PPP. The party has won every national and provincial election that it has contested from Lyari from 1970 right up till the 2008 election.

The credit for this goes to PPP chairman, Z A. Bhutto and his party’s original socialist manifesto that resonated successfully with the people of Lyari.

The populism and socialist policies of the first PPP government (1972-77) were hugely popular with the voters of Lyari, but the PPP and the Bhuttos became enshrined as perpetual heroes here after Bhutto was toppled by a reactionary military coup orchestrated by General Ziaul Haq and then hanged to death through a sham trial in 1979.

Lyari witnessed a number of violent protests against the Zia regime throughout the 1980s, many of these turned into armed conflicts between the police and youth belonging to the PPP’s student and youth wings.

Lyari also became the breeding ground of radical left-wing politics and activity during the dictatorship. A number of young residents of Lyari were jailed and some were even hanged for their supposed involvement with Murtaza Bhutto’s Al-Zulfikar Organisation (AZO) and other supposedly clandestine ‘communist outfits.’

On her return from exile in 1986, the first large rally that Benazir Bhutto held in Karachi was in Lyari. Her marriage to Asif Ali Zardari also took place in Lyari (1987).

To date, though parties like the MQM, ANP, Sunni Tehreek and some militant Baloch and Sindhi nationalist parties have opened offices here, the PPP support base and vote bank remains steadfast and secure in Lyari.

Rangers guard the entrance of Lyari Town.

Attempts have also been made by puritanical Islamic evangelist groups like the Tableeghi Jamat to recruit young poverty-stricken Lyari residents, but the Jamat’s attempts have failed to bag much interest.

Gangland

Lyari is also known for gang-related violence. Though wild and often deadly, many Lyari gangsters have ultimately been portrayed by most Lyari residents as victims of their circumstances; some have even been casted as Robin Hood like characters in Lyari’s many urban folklores.

The first well known gangster here went by the name of Kala Naag (Black Serpent). He was active in Lyari in the 1960s, peddling hashish and running a network of pickpockets.

Kala Naag who emerged from poverty to become a toughie ‘trained’ two angry young men from the area, Sheru and Dadal. Both men were huge American movie fans, loved to drink whisky, smoked hashish and made a living by selling black tickets outside cinemas.

They began to encroach upon Naag’s business and became rivals. Gang fights between their individual groups became common but in which only fists and knives were used. Then in 1967, Kala Nag was killed while fleeing the cops.

Sheru and Dadal battled it out between themselves until the arrival of Kala Nag’s son, Allah Baksh, also called ‘Kala Nag 2 (sic).’

Till the early 1980s, Lyari gangsters were largely involved in the trafficking of hashish, in bootlegging and street crimes. However, with the arrival of large quantities of sophisticated weapons and heroin, brought into the city by the large number of Afghan refugees pouring into Pakistan at the wake of the so-called anti-Soviet jihad in Afghanistan, changed that.

Changing rules of the game and growing poverty and population in Lyari meant the emergence of deadlier criminals. Kala Nag 2 joined hands with one Iqbal Babu and brushed aside Sheru and Dadal.

Nag 2 and Babu’s new opponent was Haji Lalu. All of them were now arming their gangs with sophisticated weaponry and had begun to peddle heroin as well.

Lyari was distributed between Babu and Lalu, both of whose groups are also said to have had provided safety to anti-Zia radicals on the run from the police.

Rehman Dakait.

Lalu’s gang and the gang operated by Babu and Kala Nag 2 were constantly battling in the streets of Lyari. Extortion had become big business. Babu hired Hanif Bajola, a contract killer to kill Lalu. Simultaneously, Lalu was training his friend Dadal’s orphan son to make a hit on Babu.

Meanwhile, Dadal’s teenaged son, Rehman (Rehman Dakait), entered the fry to take revenge for his father’s downfall engineered by Babu and Kala Nag 2.

Lalu’s son, Arshad Pappu also arrived on the scene. Yet another generation of Lyari gangsters was in the making.

Rehman’s anger was used by Lalu against Kala Nag 2 and Babu. Nag was arrested by police (in 1991), whereas Rehman and his men mowed down a large number of Babu’s thugs, including four of Babu’s sons.

In 1996 Babu was arrested and put behind bars. So was Rehman, but in 1997 he managed to break out and escape. He was now at loggerheads with his mentor Lalu who was put behind bars in the early 2000s, leaving his son Arshad Papu to run his gang.

For almost a decade after this, Rehman and Papu’s gangs battled to enforce their authority over Lyari’s deteriorating crime scene. This was also the first time when Rehman and Papu were said to have developed links with the PPP and MQM men in the area.

Rehman engineered the formation of the Peoples Aman Committee, a charity organisation that distributed money and food to the people of Lyari and was also patronised by the PPP. But the committee was also manned by Rehman’s thugs in the extortion and kidnapping business.

In 2009, the PPP, now back in power, felt that Rehman was becoming too big for his boots. It looked the other way when Karachi police shot dead Rehman.

In 2011, when the Committee, now under Uzair Baloch, got embroiled in a deadly tussle with thugs patronised by the MQM, the PPP’s Sindh government banned the committee.

Nadeem F. Paracha is a cultural critic and senior columnist for Dawn Newspaper and Dawn.com

The views expressed by this blogger and in the following reader comments do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.


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Comments (38) Closed




Srini (San Francisco
Mar 29, 2012 01:47pm
good analysis. Since it is pen'ed by NFP, started looking at humor part, but first few lines defined the seriousness of the situation and then nicely put recap of history.Well researched article. But the violence has to stop somehow. I live in San Francisco bay area where Indians,Pakistanis,Chinese,Russians,,MiddleEast'ers,British,Germans (list goes on) all live together peacefully. Peace.
Naseem Islam
Mar 29, 2012 01:49pm
An informative article. Thanks
Iqbal Ismail Culcatt
Mar 29, 2012 01:49pm
Brilliant article thank you for sharing. I know the Makranis we had a Makrani driver. Haider was his name and he was very loyal to my father.
Zia Ur Rehman
Mar 29, 2012 02:29pm
Excellent piece. Lyari is Lyari. Out mainstream media, at behest of some 'forces', are intentionally and immorally, maligning Lyari, a Karachi's oldest area, and its people, the city's indigenous populaton. Lyari is hub of cultural diversity and ethnic mixing where Balochis, Makranis, Kachi, Pashtuns of Afghanistan and KP, Niazis of Miawali and Chakwal, Sindhis and Indian and Bengali immigrants live . Lyari, a stronghold of democratic forces esp PPP, the left and Baloch nationalists movement has played a vital role in restoration of democracy and ousting of dictators. Especially during Zia's black regime, they have rendered many sacrifices for democracy. But through a conspiracy, Lyari has been handed over to criminal gangs and fascist organization. MQM is afraid of Lyari as it is a stronghold of PPP and want to get enter in Lyari's politics through Arshad Pappo and other criminal gangs while through People Aman Committee, backed by Zulfiqar Mirza and other PPP leaders, the government is saving its stronghold.
Azeem
Mar 29, 2012 02:35pm
Im not a fan of NFP and frankly hardly ever agree with most of his articles, indeed some i found to be personally offensive. However this is a serious piece brilliantly penned I must admit by a skilled writer who in an nutshell portrayed Lyari situation accurately. NFP more pieces like this and less of the other variety would do you a lot of good and portray you as a serious journalist.
Shumail
Mar 29, 2012 02:43pm
Violence erupts where provided resources are too scant to share and someone has to starve.All this gangwars are outcome of unfair resource distribution, lack of education and health facilities
Odhano
Mar 29, 2012 02:44pm
What an insightful analysis! So, it's always been a war between two gangs for establishing authority in the area. But, where did the government and charity foundation disappear to work for the good of populace?
Jeeay Karachi
Mar 29, 2012 02:53pm
No one writes on Karachi the way NFP does. A true and insightful Karachiite.
Goga Nalaik
Mar 29, 2012 02:53pm
Thank you Nadeem for this well researched article. I've learnt so much about Lyari today. Your fan
Aijaz Hussain
Mar 29, 2012 02:58pm
This is a great article.a must read for all Karachi residents and the talking heads that pupate our TV channels
Najma Beig
Mar 29, 2012 03:18pm
I have never come across a writer like Paracha. He is potent and good at whatever he tries his hand at: His satirical pieces are a riot and so are his more serious articles like this one. Kudos, nfp. You made my day again.
Imraan Mehmood
Mar 29, 2012 03:30pm
What a relief, at last NFP has returned to his senses, very informative article. A good break from his recent comedies.
Sam A KHAN
Mar 29, 2012 03:49pm
Dear NFP sb, This article beautifully narrated the untold story of much suffered district of Karachi and I hope much more would come from your side.Furthermore,this article by telling the history induced some sense of my sympathy towards Lyari!Before i Just imagined Lyari from press reports , just a district of crimes and hate,but this article unfold the underlying cruelties and diversities!I hope one day a peace would prevail where everyone would live with tolerance and love there.I hope this diversity that once prevailed would not extinct at all!
Dani
Mar 29, 2012 04:23pm
Very nice article, NFP. People of Lyari are the real Karachiites who have been living here for centuries.
Jamil
Mar 29, 2012 04:30pm
why do you state the facts and leave the analysis to readers, step ahead and tell us the interpretation and conclusion Nadeem
Baluch
Mar 29, 2012 04:41pm
Very well written respected NFP sahib.
Afnan Ahmed
Mar 29, 2012 04:53pm
Finally, NFP writes some sense. Probably took 2 decades or more but he finally wrote an objective article which makes me more 'informed' than I originally was.
Ahmed
Mar 29, 2012 05:33pm
One of the better peices from NFP but I cant say that is 100% correct since its coming from NFP who I know from reading his articles in the past, is an extremely biased and opinionated fellow.
Nadia Mirza Ali
Mar 29, 2012 05:58pm
Yet again top feature on yet another aspect of Karachi, NFP. NFP is a unique journo. He has two sets of fans. One who like his parody articles and one who like his long social and political studies of many aspects of Pakistan. But then there are those like me who like whatever he comes up with. Great stuff this.
aziz
Mar 29, 2012 06:06pm
Their primary language is Swahili which they still speak.
S M Shah
Mar 29, 2012 07:54pm
NFP, finally writing something I learn from. Satire is all very well, facts are fun too...
AHA
Mar 29, 2012 08:03pm
@NFP – Sometimes you make me laugh. Sometimes you make me cry. But you ALWAYS make me think. Thank you for another masterpiece
Maliha
Mar 29, 2012 08:20pm
Very Informative and interesting specially the background of gangs in lyari specifically of Rehma the gangster.
Mohdudul Huq
Mar 29, 2012 09:17pm
Why government is not taking action for disorderly acts?
Mansoor Akbar
Mar 29, 2012 10:04pm
A very informative article by Mr. Paracha about LYARI for non-residents. Living in Houston, Texas for almost 40 years I feel nostalgic whenever I visit my birthplace where I spent my 28 years with everlasting memories. Have traveled few countries but never seen someplace like Lyari. That's I always say "Lyari is Lyari".
Hamza
Mar 30, 2012 01:17am
It's open to interpretation. If he gives conclusions then he is charged with being biased. For once, use your own brain and come up with logical conclusions when the premises are even given.
Hamza
Mar 30, 2012 01:26am
Seems like a movie plot. Basti, dakait, badla et al. Interesting nonetheless.
khan balocch
Mar 30, 2012 02:53am
i want to correct few facts 1- Iqbal Babu ,Sheru and Dadal were not Makrani their family from IRAN and Belong to iranian Balochistan 2-PPP lost one sindh province seat in 1996 election 3-peoples aman committe is only not in lyari but all over karachi 4-oldest people of lyari are Baloch Sindhi (inc kutchi) and makarni who are balochi speaking 5-my objection to the writer is you can not use (sheed)i to call our baloch and sindhi brothers.as you write"The Sheedis are believed to be the descendants of slaves, sailors, servants and merchants from East Africa who arrived between 1200 and 1900 AD. In what is today Pakistan, these slaves largely settled along the Markran Coast in Balochistan (they are also called Makranis)" makarani baloch are from distric Makran(balochistan) oman and from iran and few of them from lasebela balochistan who they speak Sindhi
Ali Hassan
Mar 30, 2012 04:12am
it's the Rio de Joneiro of Pakistan....so much football and art talent in Lyari invest in the youth, o "leaders" of Pakistan INVEST...... the returns would be huge -- socially, economically
SuSanta
Mar 30, 2012 07:45am
What a tune, amazing! Bija Teer Bija! Is it based on folk tune? Can somebody translate the lyric.
Yawar
Mar 30, 2012 09:29am
excellent article; satire or serious, Mr. Paracha you are good
Daar
Mar 30, 2012 01:45pm
Eel said Hamza. NFP never hides his liking for PPP, MQM, ANP and the Sindhi and Baloch nationalists. But you are right, whenever he airs his opinion some of his readers accuse him of showing bias, and whenever he does one of historical pieces, they turn around and actually accuse him of not airing an opinion.
Sami
Mar 30, 2012 01:46pm
Good stuff. Why you did not write anything about what we need to do to get rid of these thugs doesnt matter which group they belong to?
M Ahmed
Mar 30, 2012 05:13pm
Reading through the article it occurred to me, if this is how (incumbent) govt looks after its very own people, who have supported them for decades, then God knows what they have in mind for the rest of the country! Overall this was an enlightening read. Recommended!
Raazia
Mar 30, 2012 06:36pm
well written. it was of my great interest to know the history of liyari.
Surrayya
Mar 30, 2012 09:34pm
I think the writer has made a mistake, its Dila Teer Bija (I am not sure of the exact translation but its talking of the PPP election symbol of the sword and is saying in the Makrani dialect of Balochi 'sword will pierce the heart of your enemies" some one can come up with a better translation, the song is in Balochi, Urdu and Punjabi and was even copied by an Indian movie and picturized on Amitabh Bachan and Jaya Parda.
Asad
Apr 25, 2012 12:24pm
Nice piece of story about Lyari, It is necessary to be mentioned here that the persons who are leaving in Lyari now a days are very hard workers and they live their life being one of worst part of world. So please keep piece in Lyari so the people live just like heaven.
ifte990111
Apr 29, 2012 07:57am
but first pic is not of lyari but sadar area.