The Karachi versus Lahore rivalry reaches a whole new level of competitiveness when it comes to food. Denizens of both cities blow their own trumpet claiming to be pioneers of certain traditional delicacies, especially being sentimental about biryani and nihari. When this debate will end, if it ever will, we don’t know.

Firmly believing that the Lahorites have no idea about the wide array of flavours and foods Karachi has to offer, and giving them an opportunity to get an idea of what the port city has to offer, Mahwish Malik launched Karachi Kanteen on main M.M. Alam Road in the basement of Al-Hafeez Tower. Having been trained with Italian restaurant L’Anima in London, Mahwish aims at offering a taste of her hometown on a plate to Lahore where she’s based after marriage.

It’s a small, congested space but exudes vibrancy with yellow-painted walls, multi-hued graffiti and four colourful glasses placed on each table. The menu offers a select bunch of meals for a weekend breakfast, starters, daily specials – including a special Karachi version of Khao Suey (from what I was told), house specials, including the popular Sindhi biryani, and buns/sandwiches that include the Karachi fav bun kabab.

I started with the Bhindi Fries that I had decided to try as soon as I saw it on their menu online. Thin, perfectly crispy strips of bhindi¸ or okra/lady’s finger as it’s known otherwise, fried and sprinkled with chaat masala with lemon juice squeezed on top is so mouth-watering one can’t help reach out for more.

The Bhel Puri Fries comprises yoghurt-less, crunchy bhel puri amply mixed with spicy, but delicious, chilli and coriander as well as plum and tamarind chutneys and hidden beneath all of this were French fries. Loved Kanteen’s take on the classic bhel puri.

Masala Sloppy Joe is inspired by the messy American sandwich whose filling is oozing out, however this is a sophisticated version of the original with minced beef packed inside butter-toasted buns. It’s a light, subtle sandwich though the butter adds a different dimension to the taste. Also, it could be a little less pricey (It’s Rs350 exclusive of tax).

The classic Bun Kabab has a thick beef and lentil patty wrapped in a sheet of plain omelette, topped with onion and smothered with ketchup and a delicious, spicy green chutney. The presentation is much refined from the street favourite and the chutney adds a Kanteen touch to it that gels pretty well with the rest of the filling. Fair value for money for Rs250 when you have street food in a restaurant.

Even something as unexciting as a club sandwich has been slightly elevated by adding their own flavour to it. The Desi Club retains the essential layers comprising boiled egg, cucumber, chicken and cheese. But what makes it stand out, clearly, are the roasted garlic and red chutneys that make an otherwise ordinary club sandwich scrumptious.

How much I waited to try the Sindhi biryani! Fresh out of a piping hot pateela, the aroma of the masala filled the air. It looked exactly like a biryani should – balanced between soft white and yellow rice, the customary potatoes and high on spices. I have generally abhorred the either oily or flat dry biryanis available in Lahore that taste, or look, anything but like a biryani. This, by far, has to be the best I’ve had in town. And a Sindhi one (as I understand it to be) at that.

On to the dessert. The Khubani ka Meetha is made of dried and then soaked apricots. Out of the few ways in which this dessert is prepared, this one had a layer of apricot mash with almonds at the bottom and then a thick layer of custard over it that was drizzled with cream on top. It was light and just mildly sweet rather than being loaded with sugar.

The winter special Daal ka Halwa was another item I couldn’t wait to try; it is made of split chickpea (chana daal). This finely grainy warm brown halwa is garnished with pistachios to add a nutty flavour and has a comforting quality to it.

The Three Milk Cake has become one of my favourite desserts in town. It’s a really moist, drenched, pudding-like cake, infused with cardamom, sprinkled on top with cinnamon powder, topped with lots of cream and served with a sauce. Not overly sweet, every flavour distinct, it’s sheer happiness on a plate.

Karachi Kanteen is reasonably priced, and the food generally feels homely and unpretentious. They may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but if you genuinely love food, this one must be tried.

Published in Dawn, January 21st, 2018