Time to get deep down dirty, right underneath the fingernails if you wish to create a large or small patch of ‘spring woodland’ in your garden, or in pots and containers.

All you need is a partially shady location, such as troublesome areas shaded by trees or shrubs. If correctly prepared, with a good ‘heap’ of medium to rich, water-retentive, preferably organic, compost/leaf mould, some mulch if possible, they are ideal for growing Primulas.

This huge genus of mainly herbaceous perennials — of which one member Primula denticulata is still found growing in its natural habitat in the Murree Hills — is, for climatic reasons, best treated as an annual in coastal areas and plains of the country. But it is a long-lived perennial in upland regions provided, on a garden scale, the selected species is given the cultivation requirements suited to its individual needs.

How about creating a patch of woodland in your garden?

Primulas are one of the few plant species that do not mind growing amongst tree/shrub roots and, if planted in ‘pockets’ of compost/humus-rich soil, Primulas actively seem to enjoy the company. These also thrive in as little as one hour of sunshine per day so are perfect for otherwise troublesome spots.

Such a ‘pocket’ should be two to three times the width and depth of the soil/compost in the plant pot you have purchased your established primula seedlings in and which — as ‘primula’ roots are extra fragile — should be disturbed as little as possible during the transplanting process. Gently holding the seedling in place, simply turn the plant pot upside down, give the base a sharp tap and the seedling, complete with its soil/compost, should fall out in one piece into your hand. Turn it the right way up and carefully insert it into the previously prepared ‘pocket’, water it in to settle it, spread a thin layer of mulch around to help retain soil moisture and there you have it.

To create a woodland impression, provide your brightly-coloured or in-pastel shades primulas with a softly-shifting backcloth of feathery ferns with a pretty rock or an unusual chunk of tree root/branch for more impact.

Organised and planted between October and the end of December — even into January if primula plants are late in reaching your local nurseries — you will, if watered regularly, have a peaceful patch of personal woodland to enjoy until summer heat brings flowering to a halt. Depending on exact location and on the amount of tender loving care given, the primulas may — or may not — survive to give a repeat performance year after year.

A little tricky to grow from seed, quite a few commercial growers have taken to propagating a limited range of primulas in plastic/green shade tunnels (to protect from heavy rain and hailstones that can decimate tender plants) in carefully chosen Hill Station locations over summer months. The resultant crops of plants, usually in individual pots, are transported down to the plains in early autumn and once they begin to bloom in very early spring, are sold to discerning gardeners at a fairly reasonable price.

Seed sowing tips for primulas: Sow this month or from the beginning of September next year, and in upland areas, sow in late spring/early summer. Primula seed is notorious for very slow germination but germination is possible in less than three weeks if you do the following:

Put the tiny seed into a vial or/tiny container, add a few drops of water and put in the freezer for three days, thaw out then freeze for another four days, thaw out again and put back in the freezer for a final four days before finally thawing them out and draining on a piece of absorbent paper, kitchen roll is ideal.

Sow the seed, as thinly as possible, on the surface of good quality seed compost — the seeds need light for germination to take place — in seed trays or shallow pots, placing these out of direct sunlight in a lightly shaded place.

Sprinkle with hot, but not boiling, water immediately after sowing and again on the following day; thereafter, sprinkle with just warm water (blood heat) as and when needed to keep the compost damp but not soaking wet: overly wet compost will cause the seeds to rot.

Covering the seed tray/pot with a pane of glass helps germination but if such a covering results in very high humidity it is best to remove it to prevent seed rot.

Using this method seed can germinate rapidly.

The glass should be removed as soon as there is clear evidence of germination.

Once you can see a number of seedlings growing, a very light sprinkling of river sand amongst them — without burying any of their leaves — encourages growth.

When seedlings have developed four to six true leaves, they can be transplanted into their growing position or first be grown on to a larger size in individual pots.

There are many different varieties of primulas to choose from with Primula acaulis — sometimes called polyanthus — and Primula malacoides being among the easiest to find in nurseries here.

Please continue sending your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. It is important to include your location. The writer does not respond directly by email. Emails with attachments will not be opened. Commercial enquiries will be ignored.

Published in Dawn, EOS, October 15th, 2017