The sweet smell of success

Published October 30, 2016
‘Spencer’ sweet peas
‘Spencer’ sweet peas

The glorious fragrance of sweet peas saturates a garden atmosphere with dreamy romance and utter, sensual bliss. You will be delighted to know that growing these alluring flowers is nowhere near as problematic as some gardening ‘experts’ would have us believe.

There are a surprising number of sweet pea varieties: old-fashioned ones often bear slightly smaller flowers but have a stronger and more pleasant fragrance than the modern varieties such as Grandiflora and Spencer.

Sweet peas are also found in many sizes such as dwarf, medium and tall. The dwarf varieties are ideal for pot or container cultivation and for use in flower borders. The medium and tall ones have the capacity to tower over six feet in height and can be grown at the back of flower borders or at perfumed focal points in the garden. Very tall sweet pea varieties can transform pergolas into romantic retreats.


If there’s one plant you should plant this winter season, it’s the sweet pea


The colour range is incredible too: from pale, pastel shades and soft blues and whites to pinks and lavenders to midnight blues, claret, plum, blazing red and even chocolate browns. Then there are the bi-colours: lusciously marbled and streaked surprises; silken, fluted ones; and flaunting, ballerina-type frills.

Getting sweet peas — botanically known as Lathyrus odoratus — off to a good start is absolutely essential if you want your garden populated with these sought-after, highly-perfumed flowers.

Things to know before you plant

Sweet peas should be planted in the winter. They require a lot of nutrition, plenty of sunshine and regular watering. However, if mildew problems are to be avoided it is important that the soil drains well.

Inexperienced gardeners often presume that wilting indicates a lack of water yet it is a common sign of over-watering too. Make sure to monitor for signs of water-logging such as the yellowing of the leaves, rotting of the plant roots or blackening of previously healthy stems. If the problem isn’t rectified in time, fungal disease can occur and kill the plant.

Preparing the soil

An ideal soil mix is composed of 50 per cent sweet earth, 25 per cent old, well-rotted, organic manure and 25 per cent top quality, preferably homemade, organic compost. Sweet peas can also be grown, with great success, in suitably large pots / containers.

Old-fashioned sweet peas — ‘Cupani’
Old-fashioned sweet peas — ‘Cupani’

Ideally you should prepare the soil or pots and containers at least two weeks to four weeks in advance. If kept just lightly watered, this allows for the soil / manure / compost mix to ‘meld’ and settle, thus creating perfect conditions for seed germination.

Sowing the seed

Sweet peas are sown from now until the end of November. However, the earlier the seeds are planted in the sowing season, the better it is as this gives the seedlings extra time to develop a strong root system. Don’t forget that in areas where winter nights are chilly seedlings will benefit from night-time protection.

There’s a likelihood of seeds germinating 75 per cent to 90 per cent of the time — if they have been sourced from a reputable supplier. Since the seeds are hard and round, it is a good idea to soak them in warm water for 24 hours immediately prior sowing them —soaking will soften the outer seed casing and allow the shoots to emerge more easily.

Sow the seeds at a depth of two to three inches and three to six inches apart from each other. There are different varieties of sweet peas and the medium to tall-growing plants will need support over which to climb. Supports should be placed at the same time seeds are sown as doing this later leaves the seedling roots fragile and vulnerable. If growth is exceptionally vigorous, they may need to be gently tied into place as full-grown plants can get knocked over by wind or rain.

Caring for the plant

A liquid feed of a seaweed-based plant food should be given once every two weeks from the time the plants begin to form flower buds right until it begins to die at the end of the flowering season.

Once the plants start flowering, dead-heading is essential. This, along with cutting the flowers for bouquets, encourages new flowers to form and prolongs the flowering period in the process.

Whatever else you decide to plant for your winter and spring garden pleasures, please make sure that you include plenty of these!

Please continue sending your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. Remember to include your location. The writer does not respond directly by email. Emails with attachments will not be opened.

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, October 30th, 2016

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