Rick Stein is a name most foodies around the world are familiar with. The famous chef has written several cookbooks, and hosted many TV cookery programmes. But these popular shows are not shot in a studio; rather, he travels to exotic locations, sampling the local fare in restaurants, homes and roadside joints to get authentic recipes. After tasting them and learning how they are prepared, he cooks them himself. What makes these programmes even more appealing is his charming manner and simple technique.

Stein first made a name for himself with a seafood restaurant in Cornwall, and has expanded his empire to include four upscale eateries, all carrying his name. I had seen several of his cookbooks, but became a fan when he did a TV series on cooking in India about four years ago. For the programme, he travelled across the country, visiting hotels, restaurants, simple homes, dhabas and palaces. In each kitchen, he would pick up a recipe that he would replicate at his temporary home in Goa, using basic equipment and local ingredients. The delicious results of this foodie road-trip made their way into a beautifully produced cookbook called India: the Search for the Perfect Recipes from my Indian Odyssey.

As soon as the book was published, I bought a copy, and have cooked many of the dishes it contains. The recipes are clear and concise, and easy to follow. With this background, when the new Rick Stein restaurant opened not far from us in Sandbanks, we booked a table and asked a couple of friends to join us. It was raining when we arrived, and we were led to the upper floor to our table by the huge windows overlooking the harbour. The view, even in the gloomy weather, was breathtaking, with pleasure boats bobbing on the incoming tide. And as we examined the extensive menu, the sinking sun appeared, lighting up the sails of a number of boats from behind as their spinnakers billowed in the wind. The view alone justified the bill.

Celebrated chef, Rick Stein on how to prepare the sea’s harvest to perfection in his restaurant

As a starter, I ordered a platter of oysters and spicy beef sausages as I was intrigued by the combination. I only squeezed some lemon on the crustaceans as I prefer their briny taste without the Tabasco sauce on offer. The oysters were plump and succulent, with some of their juice still in the shell. The sausages had a real bite, and crumbled under the knife, providing a counterpoint to the sensual passage of the raw oysters as they glided down the throat.

Instead of a main course, I ordered another starter that had caught my eye: risotto with cuttlefish in black ink. This inky liquid is carried in a sac by this member of the octopus family as a defensive device to squirt on predators. Fishmongers usually remove it while selling cuttlefish, but it makes a stunning visual impact on a white plate served with either rice or pasta. The chef had diced the cuttlefish into very small pieces so it was difficult to distinguish them from the grains of Arborio rice. The flavour was intense and unforgettable.

The lady wife had the same oysters and sausages, but for the second course she ordered linguine with crab and chillies which she pronounced cooked to perfection. Our friend ordered hake, a firm-fleshed Atlantic fish, while his wife had a rock bream. Both were delighted with their choices.

The wide selection of seafood on the menu was very impressive. And now, post-Brexit, I have been wondering how long it will be before custom duty will be imposed on oysters and fish imported from the EU and vice versa. In the ‘leave’ campaign, fishermen were at the fore, claiming that being part of the EU had deprived them of their rightful catch, and had depleted fish stocks. During Britain’s negotiations to leave the European Union, fishing rights will figure prominently, and may lead to bitter recriminations. But it will be a big pity if Rick Stein’s fine restaurants have to limit their choices as a result.

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, July 10th, 2016