MINGORA: Surrounded by peaceful yet mysterious blackish mountains, the lush green Arab Khan Cheena valley in Swat is known for possessing relics of Gandhara civilisation.

The valley located at the end of Batkara Road in the suburbs of Mingora was once a flourishing Buddhist area.

Noted among the relics are rock carved statues and stupas, which conjure up the glorious past of the kingdom of Uddiyana, ancient name of Swat.

Besides taking fascinating traditional route, visitors can also go there via Panr and Dangram villages.

The site is in bad shape due to the neglect of authorities and lack of public awareness.


Visitors lament lack of proper information about Arab Khan Cheena valley


According to archaeologists, the site was first discovered by Aurel Stein. It was documented by Giuseppe Tucci in 1955 and 1956, studied by Domenico Faccenna, Pierfrancesco Callieri, Luca M Olivieri and Anna Filigenzi. Lastly, the site was visited by Badshah Sardar.

“With six stupas and eight rock carvings, the area offers a unique environment to understand the 7th century Buddhist context, which, despite being widely narrated by a deluge of rock carvings,” said Dr Luca Maria Olivieri, head of the Italian Archaeological Mission in Pakistan.

He, however, lamented lack of proper archaeological information about the site.

On high ground near a spring are eight rock carvings.

Slightly upstream from the ‘relief zone’ near the ridge of the Sharara range stand the ruins of six stupas.

“It’s lovely to see this small valley near Mingora. It is beautiful and historical. If you stand in the middle of the area, you will find many rocks, small and big engravings,” said Shaista Hakeem, a local tourist.

The site is rarely visited by tourists, who find it one of the best archaeological places in Swat.

“I got happy and sad at the same time when I saw the Buddhist carvings in Arab Khan Cheena. I was angry at the neglect of the authorities and happy to know about the area’s glorious past,” said Shehla Anjum, a Pakistani American writer, who lives in Alasaka.

The writer, who has a special affinity for Swat and visited it several times, said old carvings, many of them on big rocks, were tumbling down and thus, slowly disappearing.

She also regretted people had grown crops on the archeological site. “A few rock faces have visible carvings, but deteriorating from the ravages of weather as well as neglect. I looked in disbelief at a rock statue of Buddha, which was weathered and forlorn. Ironically, there was animal dung at its base,” she said.

A farmer has a rock carving in his compound.

He said he was poor and couldn’t do much except for warding off vandals.

Unfortunately, the area is being converted into a residential area amid fears the archeological site will be encroached upon in future.

“I do not know why the government and relevant departments are not taking interest in the site’s preservation. I fear these relics will soon disappear erasing an important chapter of history,” said Usman Ulasyar, chairman of Suvastu Arts and Culture Association, Swat.

When contacted, curator of Swat museum and in charge of the Swat archaeological sites Faizur Rehman said currently, the provincial government was in the process of acquiring land of 12 other archaeological sites in Swat.

“Once we complete the land acquiring exercise, work to preserve Arab Khan Cheena site will begin,” he said.

Published in Dawn, July 2nd, 2015

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