MILAN: Tactile fashion is setting the trend on Sunday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week previews for next autumn and winter menswear.

Designers are luxuriating in mohair, cashmere and heavy knits, enveloping men in rich, luxurious knitwear, including oversized scarves, chunky sweaters and slumping caps. Dark shades dominate, with some flashes of pink, purple and red offering contrast and whimsy.

Massimiliano Giornetti wraps his looks for Salvatore Ferragamo in humungous scarves — signaling comfort chic, Milan’s overriding message for next winter.

The underlying charm in the Ferragamo menswear collection came from the animal motifs that created a sense of enchantment. Geese fly placidly across the back of a suit jacket, announcing winter’s arrival.

A shaggy buffalo peers watchfully from the side of a plaid double-breasted jacket or the front of a pullover. A zebra arches gracefully across the back of a peacoat, and a pink dragon fly is embroidered on a suit jacket sleeve. The creatures, embedded in the garments, gave the collection an artistic, narrative flair. In keeping with the theme, bronze and horn claws become buckles and brooches.

A soft corduroy jacket exemplifies the sort of lived-in looks at the heart of Bottega Veneta’s collection for next autumn and winter.

The jacket comes in surprising and pleasing shades of purple, dusty rose and green and is layered over knitwear and worn with baggy elastic-waist trousers. Creative director Tomas Maier says the collection “is not about meticulous dressing, everything matching or looking brand new”.

In other words, it’s about personal style, creating unique looks to populate a wardrobe.Color contrast gives it all spark: purple against rust; Kelly green under olive; salmon pink with camel.

Published in Dawn January 19th , 2015

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