Blooming bougainvillea

Published December 14, 2014

Q. My bougainvillea, which has been growing for a number of years, flowered well last summer but the problem is that it is not even — some parts are thick, while some have branches protruding. The gardeners have made a mess of it. I want to make it into a thick privacy hedge that blooms evenly throughout. How and when should I attempt this?

A. No time like the present for getting this job done. Remember though, that it will take time for the bougainvillea to recover and to regrow, hopefully as you want, but bear in mind that nature has a will of its own. Simply prune back all unwanted growth. Do not be afraid to cut back as hard as is needed. Bougainvillea is a tough customer and will regrow. It is unlikely that you will achieve the desired result first time around. Keep on pruning out of place branches as soon as they appear — you can do this all year round — and you will eventually achieve your aim.

Q. I bought a four-coloured bougainvillea last February and it was full of bloom at the time but gradually it developed more leaves than blooms. I water it twice a week and reside in DHA, Karachi. What am I doing wrong?

A. It is highly possible that the bougainvillea is growing in soil which is too rich for its taste. Rich soil encourages bougainvillea to produce masses of leaves at the cost of colour, as does over watering; your watering regime sounds fine although, in the cooler months, you should reduce watering to once a week. Nothing needs to be done about the soil at this point. But do not, whatever else you do, feed it. The bougainvillea and the soil conditions will reach an agreement with each other at some point. Meanwhile, all you can do is to wait and keep the plant reasonably pruned so that it remains strong and healthy.


Difficult decisions sometimes need to be taken to reap a better harvest in future


Q. Can moring a trees be grown in Pakistan and what are their uses?

A. Moringa oleifera is an indigenous tree species and grows, both wild and cultivated, in plains and low hills throughout the country. It is often called ‘Drumstick tree’ or ‘Horseradish tree’ and the seed pods used to be a popular vegetable. It is now known, however, that the tree leaves are also a highly nutritious vegetable and all parts of the tree are known to have medicinal uses which are still being explored by scientists. The leaves, contain high levels of Vitamins A and C plus high levels of calcium and potassium, and are being globally promoted as the possible cure for malnutrition and related health issues. The trees are simple to cultivate, require very little upkeep and should be more widely grown, and used, in Pakistan.

Heirloom Italian aubergines
Heirloom Italian aubergines

Q. When is the best time to sow strawberry seeds in Islamabad? What size of pots do they need and which soil mix is best for healthy fruit production?

A. Strawberry seeds are best sown in very early autumn if they are to fruit the following year. Most people prefer to buy strawberry runners and these should be available in the nurseries this month. They need rich, well draining soil and a mix of 25 per cent sweet earth, 25pc river sand, 25pc organic compost and 25pc old, well rotted, organic manure is absolutely perfect. A single plant per 10-inch clay pot is recommended; or look out for special strawberry planters which have individual places for up to 24 plants.

Q. A year ago I transplanted fruit trees from clay pots into a garden bed which faces east. The fruit trees — oranges, plums and pomegranates — are all about four years old, four feet or so tall and are all grafted varieties. The problem is that I want to raise the level of this bed by one and a half feet and I need to know what to do about these grafted trees. Can I leave them as they are and bury the trunks above the grafts or do I need to dig them up and replant level with the grafts again?

A. Unfortunately you will need to take a chance and dig up the trees, replanting, with the grafts at soil level or just slightly above, when the height of the bed has been raised. Burying the grafts can result in infection and loss of the trees. I suggest that you get the job done right now if possible but, if the oranges are fruiting, they will need to wait until after the harvest is picked.

Q. I grew aubergines in large cement pots last season and even though they were not very productive I want to grow them again. The problem, I think, is that they got some kind of worms inside the leaves and this prevented them from fruiting properly as the leaves withered and fell. How can I avoid this problem in future?

A. Leaf miner is the source of the problem. These nasty larvae tunnel between leaf layers gobbling as they go, killing crucial leaves in the process. Good that you want to grow aubergines again. Next time, keep your eyes open and, recognising the problem as you do, immediately you spot any leaf miner presence, simply squash the larvae inside the leaves before they get chance to cause any major damage. If leaves are heavily infested before you spot them, remove these leaves, disposing of them sensibly, which is not in the compost heap, and, as long as it is early in the season, the plants should recover and bear fruit.

Please continue sending your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. Remember to include your location. The writer will not answer directly by email. Emails with attachments will not be opened.

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, December 14th, 2014

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