FPW 2014: Fashion week gets ready to party

Published November 22, 2014
FPW is set to show you how to party in style.
FPW is set to show you how to party in style.

Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) is round the corner and some of the best designers in Pakistan are getting ready to present their winter collections. In terms of fashion, winter in Pakistan is about two things: weddings and parties. PLBW covered the bridal angle last month and now FPW is set to show you how to party in style.

Leading the glamour stakes for FPW are Shehla Chatoor, Maheen Karim, Ayesha Farook Hashwani, Faraz Mannan and Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz. Maheen Khan and Sanam Chaudri aim to bring a touch of old school panache to the ramp while Nida Azwer gives classic elegance a modern touch. Deepak Perwani meanwhile, promises to bring a combination of contemporary and retro chic to menswear.

With winter finally on its way, designers are leaning towards silks, velvets and leather. Expect to see a lot of black, white, deep maroon and gold on the ramp along with some rich prints. Ishtiaq Afzal Khan is uniquely tending towards pastels with his 'Aurora' (Dawn) collection, but elsewhere the mood is glitzy and luxuriant.

 FPW schedule
FPW schedule

Fashion week in Karachi always tends to lean towards western wear and the seventh edition of FPW will be no exception. Most designers are showing fusion ranges and there is a heavily western tilt in many collections. This is partly because it’s easier to make an impact on the ramp with such clothing, but also because many fashion lovers prefer to wear western in winter. We should see a lot of jackets, capes, shrugs and dresses on the ramp, but there are also those who are championing Eastern wear – saris, harem dhotis and even lehngas.

FPW includes high street brands, menswear collections and luxury pret. Funk Asia, Gul Ahmed, Levis and Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz will be showing some of the great fashion that is available off the high street in Pakistan. Nauman Arfeen and Emran Rajput will be showing menswear, as will Deepak Perwani who is showing a menswear collection for the first time in 10 years. As for the rest, the stellar line-up promises plenty of brilliance.

Luxury pret is something that means wildly different things to different designers so we should see everything from cocktail dresses and saris to simple tunics. Let the party begin!


So who’s showing what?

Dawn has been behind the scenes for sneak peeks from all the designers showing at FPW and there are some fabulous collections in the offing.

Shehla Chatoor

'Misaki' by Shehla Chatoor

Shehla Chatoor is looking to the orient for inspiration once again with her 'Misaki' collection.

Shehla is one of Pakistan’s best ramp designers and manages to unite artistry and oomph in her collections. She will be combining prints based on Japanese paper folding screens with weaving and braiding techniques from Japanese baskets and Samurai armour. As ever, Shehla is in tune with the international trends so watch for sport chic, voluminous skirts and statement jewellery in her collection.

Maheen Khan

Maheen Khan will be closing fashion week with her 'To Karachi with Love' collection. This is an ode to the trendy, sophisticated Karachi of the sixties and seventies. The collection is inspired by women who were rooted in the east, but modern in their interpretation of the eastern styles. Think of western coats and capes thrown casually over saris or ghahraras. The ensembles had minimal embroidery, but oozed glamour.

“The woman I'm dressing is very much centred in the 21st century,” says Maheen Khan.

Sanam Chaudri

Sanam Chaudri’s collection is a homage to her nani and bears the same name as her grandmother, 'Bano'.

Harking back to a more modest era, 'Bano' is a collection all about subtle sensuality. It’s about celebrating femininity without revealing skin, something that sits well with Sanam’s aesthetic sense. Expect snug kotis, harem dhotis, boleros and sweeping saris in vintage shades of ivory, deep maroon, black and burnished gold.

Maheen Karim

 Mahin Karim sketches. - Photo courtesy: secretcloset.pk
Mahin Karim sketches. - Photo courtesy: secretcloset.pk

Maheen Karim is one of Karachi’s most popular designers for ball gowns and sophisticated bespoke evening wear. Her 'Ravissant' collection features velvets, nets, chiffons and lames as well as luxe prints on charmeuse. Look out for some seriously glam western evening wear including pencil dresses and power shouldered evening jackets.

Ayesha Farook Hashwani

Ayesha Farook Hashwani’s 'Baroque' collection is based on rich tactile fabrics and colours. It features capes, jackets and shrugs in velvets and rich silks in tones of black, gold and maroon. Ayesha is known for her elegant fusion cuts so expect some beautiful draping, along with her signature sumptuous embroidery.

Adnan Pardesy

 Adnan Pardesy
Adnan Pardesy's inspiration board for FPW

Adnan Pardesy is the man who put woven gota on the ramp at the last FPW. This time round, his 'Labyrinth' collection draws inspiration from cultures as varied as Greek, Japanese and African. Expect labyrinthine twists and drapes of fabric as well as intricate embroidery in a mainly monochromatic palette. The accessories for the show should be a particular highlight – they have all been made in-house, including the headgear and the jewellery.

Nida Azwer

 Nida Azwer
Nida Azwer's 'Renaissance' collection for FPW

Nida Azwer’s style is quintessentially classic but this time around Nida is showing a fusion collection. Her pret a porter 'Renaissance' collection for FPW pairs lehngas and saris with jackets and crop tops. The collection can be worn as separates or put together into complete ensembles for funky wedding wear. Nida has used digital and screen prints for the collection as well as laser cutting and hand embroidery.

Sadaf Malaterre

Sadaf Malaterre has a unique design philosophy amongst Pakistani designers. Her minimalist approach focuses on drape and silhouette and her ‘less is more’ approach generates an elegant simplicity. She prefers to make a statement on the ramp rather than reveal much about her collection beforehand, which is intriguing.

Funk Asia

Funk Asia is showing their 'Folk Spirit' collection. Funk Asia is one of those brands that epitomises contemporary ethnic chic. Folk accents and bold embroidery are a given in any Funk Asia collection, but it will be interesting to see what cuts and silhouettes they bring to the ramp this time around.

Zaheer Abbas

Zaheer Abbas intends to tease with his 'Neo-Nude' collection. Hinting at bare skin through layers of chiffon and net or showing discreet flashes of flesh, 'Neo Nude' is not about voyeurism. Zaheer hopes to use illusion to create a sense of sensual mystery.

Deepak Perwani

 Deepak Perwani
Deepak Perwani's collection for FPW 2014

Deepak Perwani’s 'Everything But The Girl' collection is particularly exciting because this is the first time in 10 years that Deepak is showing menswear at fashion week.

Deepak started his design career with menswear and is still one of the most popular menswear designers in Pakistan. A Deepak Perwani sherwani is almost de rigeur for the groom in certain circles.

This collection will feature everything from T-shirts to embroidered jackets. Watch out for digital prints, fur accents and immaculate tailoring.

Faraz Mannan

Faraz Mannan’s 'Shanghai' collection is a resort collection focusing purely on western wear. Faraz is not showing any of the sort of eastern luxury pret that was included at the sixth FPW. This collection consists primarily of separates such as tweed jackets, embellished gowns and skirts, crop tops and flared pants. Faraz drew inspiration from a recent trip to Shanghai for this cosmopolitan collection in tones of black, blush pink and rose gold.

Sana Safinaz

Sana Safinaz are showing two collections – a luxury pret collection by Mohsin Ali and a retail pret line by Ather Ali Hafeez.

 Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz (L) and Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz
Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz (L) and Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz

Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz will show a vibrant 'Bohemian' collection that has a distinctly retro vibe. The collection will apparently focus on a more modest approach to fashion, which is smart given the market demographic for the label. It’s a light-hearted collection in muslin, satins and silks that reflects spontaneity and quirky femininity. Watch for Safinaz on the red carpet in a cape from this collection.

Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz meanwhile, is all about edgy glamour. The jungle themed collection has a sporty, masculine vibe and is heavy on structure and layering. The collection uses shades drawn from the wild on silks, lame, leather and digital prints. Mohsin Ali is famous for thinking out of the box and this is a collection that fashion lovers are looking forward to. The collection will be accessorised by jewellery from renowned Indian brand Outhouse, which has just been launched in Pakistan by Sana Hafeez Sheikh.

Aamna Aqeel

Aamna Aqeel is all about bold, contemporary designs. Her ‘Black on Fire’ collection mixes rich Victorian prints with monochromatic silks and velvets. She is using intricate embroidery and a touch of gold on modern silhouettes to portray her vision of feminine elegance.

Nauman Arfeen

Nauman Arfeen’s 'Royal Parade' collection is based on his trademark sharp tailoring and fine embroidery. Using threadwork and gold beadwork on homespun raw silks and jamawar, Arfeen is going for a more formal, regal look with this collection. His fairly neutral palette of black and fawn with a touch of lavender should keep the collection on the right side of chic.

Deepak & Fahad

 Deepak & Fahad sketches
Deepak & Fahad sketches

Deepak & Fahad are showing a versatile monochrome collection that includes everything from gowns to capes to suits. They have focused on pure fabrics, including cotton, chiffon, silks, leather and suede. Although they are relative newcomers, they have the potential to do well.

Ishtiaq Afzal Khan

Ishtiaq Afzal Khan has opted for a unique palette of pistachio green, orange and carbon blue for his 'Aurora' collection. He will be showing feminine silhouettes using leather, chiffon, jersey and silk.

Emraan Rajput

  Emraan Rajput sketches
Emraan Rajput sketches

Emraan Rajput’s 'Alpha' collection is a military collection that uses camouflage prints, combat boots and military jackets for a tough feel. Military has been done on the ramp so many times that it is incredibly difficult to pull off a modern sequel look. It will be interesting to see whether Emraan manages to give a contemporary twist to his military collection.

Gul Ahmed

Gul Ahmed are showing a western collection in deep, rich colours. The fabrics used, including velvets, silks and karandi are all part of their latest winter collection which is available in-store. Expect to see sweeping skirts, capes, jackets as well as some of their latest shawls.

Levis will also be showing selections of their winter collections.


The writer is a freelance journalist and the creative force behind style blog karachista.com. Follow her on Twitter @karachista

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