“Ziarat mein kuch nahin hai,” our three-year-old daughter kept on saying while we were visiting Ziarat. To appease her, I assured her that next time we would visit a place where she would meet her storybook friends: deer, elephants and rhinos!

That was not an empty promise at all; last year our holiday itinerary included Chitwan, Nepal’s oldest national park and the abode of a variety of rare animals — notably rhinoceros, sloth bears, hanuman langur, barking deer, leopards and His Excellency the Royal Bengal Tiger — in addition to a wide range of birds, fish, flora and fauna. Though it might not be as exotic as an African Safari, from a Pakistani perspective, Chitwan National Park is the most accessible option for a full-fledged jungle experience where wild creatures can be spotted from arm’s length, literally speaking.

A Unesco World Heritage Site, the sanctuary is located 175km from Kathmandu, in the south central Terai (a belt of marshy jungle lying between the lower foothills of the Himalayas and the plains) of Nepal, and touches the Indian border from the other side. The place is one of the significant habitats of the endangered one-horned rhinoceros, the population of which decreased to below 100 in the 1960s because of excessive hunting. It’s only horn, which differentiates it from the regular two-horned type, is the main reason why it is still targeted. Due to its supposed aphrodisiac value, which is yet to be proven scientifically, rhino horn fetches as much as $100,000 per kg, almost double the price of gold, in Indochina’s black markets. However, concerted efforts by the government and international conservation agencies helped the animal, pulling the population back to over 500 according to the most recent WWF census.

The Nepali government also invested in developing far flung areas to attract nature-lovers from around the world. Comfortable buses ply between Kathmandu and Chitwan daily, while tourist lodges are available in the adjacent Sauhara town. Previously there used to be accommodation facilities right inside the park which have lately been closed to protect the animals.

It was an extremely humid afternoon when we reached Sauhara, the park’s main entrance. The amusement started as soon as we stepped out of our cottage for an orientation walk around the town. It was a young rhinoceros, still the size of a grownup buffalo, running towards us passionately. A yard of flimsy fence — the official boundary between the wilderness and civilisation — was our only defence. The herbivore appeared totally unaware of the national park rules and we were also not willing to trust zoologists’ claim that its molars are not designed for meat eating!

As we deliberated on which way to run, a group of wardens appeared from behind a tree; one of whom waved a piece of cloth at it and shouted, distracting the charging beast towards himself. Good for us! But that was not it, as another guy had to repeat the same ritual the next moment to save his colleague’s skin. It was like watching a bullfight live! Passers-by were unruffled with the show, one of whom enlightened us that the juvenile suffered an injury in the jungle and was therefore brought to the veterinary camp. This impromptu sports team was actually the platoon of park rangers enjoying their free time.

In the following two days, we investigated the rainforest thoroughly first from inside the open air safari jeep and then from the high back of the Indian elephant. The Jeep Safari group included a licensed guide in addition to the tourists from various countries. In order to reach the other side of the adjoining river, where the four-wheeler was ready, we rode the traditional canoe, which was an experience in itself.

During this 20km or so ride we spotted one-horned rhinoceros, deer of different kinds, grey langurs, colourful birds, termite mounds, wild flora and fauna, and the typical jungle silence. The feeling that bears and tigers would be roaming around the same vicinity, especially when our jeep broke down, was spine-chilling; however, we were not lucky enough to meet them. The following day we repeated the experience albeit in a way more harmonious to nature and more fascinating, i.e. on elephant back.

Elephants are a part of Chitwan’s routine life but interestingly they are not indigenous; instead they are brought there from India and then domesticated. They mainly transport national park rangers looking out for poachers in the deep inaccessible jungle. Interestingly, this giant pachyderm moves rather effortlessly, producing less sound than what even barefooted humans would make, and without alarming other animals or their hunters. Due to their tiptoeing skills these giants are also used commercially for tourist rides.

The tusker’s high back provides a better and wider view and since the animal is not bound to follow a particular trek it can sneak deeper in the animal kingdom. During the elephant safari, we once again got the privilege of ogling at the million-dollar bounty: a rhinoceros family having a bath in a pond.

At the end of the day, it turned out to be a great endeavour, equally enjoyed by the kids and worth all the hassles of travelling to a remote location. After the excursion, I was thinking why can’t we build such facilities in Pakistan which is also equally gifted, if not more? Our small Himalayan step-neighbour has indeed set an example for us which we should follow so that a day may come when our children could also take a glimpse of the snow leopard and ibex.