GLOBALISATION can be a beautiful thing. Strictly speaking in terms of the global exchange of cuisines, it has ensured that perhaps we can come together and if nothing else, savour each others’ delicacies, which may even lead to a more harmonious world. Admittedly, there’s fat chance of that happening, but don’t let it stop you from seeking out new and unexplored foreign cuisines in Karachi.

With that thought in mind, I recently hit the road to seek out the absolutely delectable South Indian delight that is masala dosa, a dish I had not savoured in some years. Now admittedly, considering the current regional scenario, I thought twice about choosing this particular dish, being a somewhat patriotic citizen.

But bah! Humbug! I told myself. Despite the mutual hatred hawks on either side of the Indo-Pakistan border might harbour for each other, the commonalities between the peoples of the two nations are perhaps greater than the differences. Hence, in my mission to promote regional peace and amity through food, I decided to march on towards the dosa.

Masala dosa has become something of a global Indian fast-food as wherever there is an Indian community to be found in the world (my uneducated guess would be that Indians are probably found in most of the world’s 200 or so nations), masala dosa is not far behind.

The basis of the dish is the dosa, as the masala comes later. The dosa is basically a cross between a crepe, a pancake, a tortilla and a puri. But trust me, once you taste one, you will realize that it has a strong, distinctly flavoured identity all its own. The dosa batter is basically made up of rice and urad daal, and the thin, crispy pancake is fried on a girdle and served with a vegetable or meat filling (the aforementioned masala), with chutneys and sauces on the side.

The first time I had tasted the mouth-watering dish was on a trip to India way back in the mists of time. A cousin ordered it from one of Ajmer’s better known restaurants and by God, I didn’t know what hit me. The taste has not left my mouth, despite over two decades having elapsed since that heavenly culinary encounter. I had tried it again much later at an Indian restaurant in the United States, but that was nothing to write home about. Here in the homeland, a few years ago I had chanced upon a pick-up truck parked near the Bahadurabad roundabout. The fact the guy was selling masala dosa out of his pick-up drew me closer and sure enough, once again, I was taken back about 20 years as the chap managed to make a respectable masala dosa.

But over the years I had lost track of the Bahadurabad masala dosa-wallah and since I rarely pass through that route, I can’t say he still exists. However, a few days ago a friend mentioned how he had recently tasted a ‘new’ Indian dish called masala dosa and was quite impressed. Upon hearing the magic words I immediately asked him where. Having secured the coordinates, I and another intrepid adventurer set sail for the outer reaches of the Boating Basin.

It was a rainy night. My friend asked me if I still wanted to go ahead with the plan. Not hail, rain or snow was going to come between me and the dosa. Providence was kind and the rain eased up a bit, as the motorbike spluttered along the busy main Clifton road. Making a long U-turn, we arrived at the beginning of the Boating Basin ‘food street’.

Sure enough, as per the information my informers had provided me, there stood a little truck advertising masala dosa on the board. There seems to be some cosmic link between Karachi’s dosa-wallahs and pick-up trucks, I thought.

As we disembarked, a waiter warmly welcomed us. This was a pleasant change as it was our first time at the joint and Karachians – including service staff – aren’t the nicest of people. Just as we placed our order, the heavens opened up and it started pouring. With a nippy sea breeze blowing and the cold rain, I thought this could possibly result in a few days of sick leave. But my resourceful dosa- wallah friend offered us a place underneath the truck’s advertising board and procured a few stools for my companion and I from parts unknown.

Within a few minutes, our sizzling dosas appeared. We had ordered fillings of potato and mince beef – separately of course – accompanied by a tangy tamarind chutney along with a lovely coconut-based condiment.

In the cold, wet and windy night, the dosas were like manna from high heaven. Between the two of us, we devoured four masala dosas. Though the mince and potato filled ones were delicious, the chicken filling took the cake, as it was out of this world, with a flavour not unlike achchar gosht.

Complimenting the chef we drove away, making plans to come again. Interestingly, the chef was not even remotely South Indian. He was a Bengali! A Bengali making a mighty fine dish originally from the Indian state of Karnataka in the heart of Pakistan’s commercial capital. Perhaps the folks from Saarc could learn a thing or two from my friend the dosa-wallah. Globalisation sure is delicious.

qasim.a.moini@dawn.com