May 20, 2002	Monday	Rabi-ul-Awwal 7, 1423

More than four decades ago, natural-coloured brown cotton was commonly grown in Pakistani villages for domestic use on small scale, in most parts of the cotton-growing areas. It was derived from both desi cotton, “Gossypium arborem” and upland cotton “G. hirsutum.”

Old ladies during their leisure time used to spin fine quality thread with the help of “charkha” since ages and achieved mastery over it. However, this was slow and pains-taking process requiring plenty of time. The local artesian ,”julaha” (weaver), used to make beautiful “khasse and khaddar” out of the same. Such articles were not sold in the market but were gifted to respectable people or dear ones in the cities.

The local cottage industry was not patronized and it vanished with the passage of time. These valuable craftsmen, being low-paid and at the same time were forced to migrate to urban areas in search of much greener pastures.

Recently, Miss Sally Fox has become a pioneer in America in reviving the interest in natural-coloured cotton and is doing a roaring business in the natural-coloured organic lint. She had accidentally found a plant of natural-coloured cotton in her back yard. Even otherwise, the use of the natural-coloured cotton is increasing gradually in the West due to its novelty.

However, on the other hand, it has also posed a threat to environment and in some cases, had been the cause of allergy. The natural coloured lint being in short supply, fetches higher price as compared to white lint. The brown and green coloured cotton is also being grown by some farmers in the United States.

There are evidences of maroon, mauve, chocolate, brown, blue, purple, pink, green, brown tan and red-coloured cloth found in the Peruvian ruins as mentioned by Miss Sally. The green colour is not fast as it fades away by exposure to sun.

According to Sally Fox, multi-coloured lint is also found in nature, and on a particular strand of lint more than one colour will develop. She says that she had green, off white, tan and red colour of lint. Green fibre cotton is the most striking of these. The green in hidden by brown genes, which is dominant over other colours. Pink, is another shade, which pops up occasionally, which she was unable to stabilize as yet.

Rust-red is another complete colour that came from brown parentage. There is citation in literature of light blue, deep yellow and rust colour cotton as being grown in Central Independent Russian States. It has come to my knowledge that grey-coloured cotton is grown in some parts of “Pothar” in Pakistan.

In textile industry, dyeing and finishing processes are water intensive. The treatment and the disposal of dyeing and printing solution are a great source of environmental pollution, especially in Faisalabad. This water is devastating waste tract of land all around the city and has become a constant threat for the adjacent areas. Its stinking smell is almost unbearable for the residents of such areas.

Any effort to decrease or eliminate the process of dyeing and finishing as the use of coloured cotton will not only be less cost expensive resulting in less environmental pollution.

The use of coloured cotton being unique and attractive has the potential to become a part of cotton fabric and apparel market but there are some limitations to it. The natural coloured cotton is low in yield usually short staple, having high micronaire and weaker in strength. Such a fibre has high maturity as compared to white.

There is an added advantage that continuous washing and exposure to sun intensifies colour rather fading of artificial dyes and colours. I initiated research at the Cotton Research Station, Bahwalpur, on the aspect of natural colour in early 90’s after collecting samples from local ginneries and importing some seed from Taxas A&M, the USA.

The initial samples collected from local ginneries had poor yield, quality, highly susceptible to insects and cotton leaf curl virus. We were confronted with an uphill task to improve many characters. In the beginning different shades of brown colour were separated into nine classes from very light to dark brown or rust. All these colours were stable, however, green faded on exposure to sun. On popping the exposed lint to sun had light colour and dark green near seed. In the second phase to produce wide range of colour crossing was attempted. The hybridization processes— the most tedious, arduous, pains-taking— requiring at least 10 to 12 years or more in some cases. The second filial generation had a wide range of colours. Which on selection of desirable colour, qualities and other desirable characters had to be stabilized in the subsequent generation? During the course of selection we found a very attractive colour. The hybridization work of natural coloured cotton is most interesting and fascinating as you come across many unexpected shades in the process.